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24 Valve 2nd Gen Dodge Cummins 98.5-02 Discussion of 24 Valve 5.9 Liter Dodge Cummins Diesels with VP44 Injection Pumps

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  #1  
Old 08-08-2012, 07:18 AM
EggosBrother's Avatar
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Default Front Axle Seal

What kind of pain am i looking at getting into to swap one of these out? Noticed a small leak under my passenger's side spindle. then discovered the spindle itself is covered. I have never had the front end of a bigger truck apart, is this going to be a good reason to talk the wife into a better air tool setup?

EggosBrother's Sig:2001 Dodge 2500 4x4 Ext. SB, Stock AT - Airdog 100, RV275's, Faulty Upgraded Fuel Module w/ DSV, Smarty, S&B CAI, Flo Pro 4" Turbo Back, TST J Hook, EDGE Comp (Sitting in Box), ISSPRO Boost, FP, Pyro
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  #2  
Old 08-08-2012, 08:55 AM
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I've been told that the seal is accessed from the inside. Total tear down to get to it. So I e decided to live with my small leak and watch the fluid level.
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  #3  
Old 08-08-2012, 09:37 AM
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well that is not good news haha
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  #4  
Old 08-08-2012, 10:48 AM
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This is where you might also think of going to a "Free Spin Kit" to disconnect the hubs from drive line.

Advantages - bigger/better wheel bearings that can be re-greased or replaced (rather than replacing the entire hub assembly); the differential isn't a "load" - always spinning with the wheels - so your MPGs can improve, turning can be easier, and front drive line components (including differential seals) last longer.

Disadvantage .... COST (Ouch!) I did mine - about $1600 for the kit - but I think it was worth it.

Face it - to get access to major front drive line components, there is a fair amount of time/effort for disassembly - so, while it is apart, consider upgrades to improve the dang thing!

vineyardm's Sig:2002 3500 HO w/ 6 speed, Standard Cab AND 2002 3500 HO w/ 6 speed 4x4 with Extended Cab. Big line for fuel systems and NO banjo bolts. 4x4 has AirDog I - works great.
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4x4 has EMS Free Spin hubs and Edge Mileage Max unit. My quest is for better fuel economy and increased reliability!!
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  #5  
Old 08-08-2012, 11:31 AM
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$1600 for the free spin kit is gonna be a hard sell, still need to upgrade tranny and hope my stock VP holds up for as far as i can see. i'll have to think about this one for a little bit haha
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  #6  
Old 08-08-2012, 11:58 AM
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... for once i dont like to say it, we are in the same boat i have a smal leak from both sides and need to tair it down and do the seals i cant afford 1600 dollars... ima going to tear mine down soon il let you know how it goes.. like a list of time and maybe so helpful pointers

scottmorgan's Sig:2001.5 ho cummins quad cab with a bullit proof 6 speed, air dog 150, quazilla adrenilane w/pulse v2, after market valair clutch 650hp Double Disk, he351 VGT turbo with fleece controll and 100hp injectors, 4" straight pipe 6" crome tip. 3" lift / 2.5" level with 37" tires.
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  #7  
Old 08-08-2012, 01:39 PM
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Hardest part will be getting the wheel bearing/hub assembly off. When you are to that point turn your steering wheel as far as you can depending on which side you are working so that the back of the hub is towards the front of the truck.. There are 4 bolts if I remeber right that hold the hub to the axle housing. Back those out a bit then put a socket on them as to not ruin the heads of the bolts, and whack the sh*t out of them with a good size hammer. Approach it as they are siezed to them like super glue.

vcustoms86's Sig:2000 5.9 BD Diesel, AirDog, SouthBend, Banks, AFE, MBPR, Dynomite Diesel,VGT Swap, and a few custom parts.
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  #8  
Old 08-11-2012, 09:39 PM
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this isnt a hard job. u do need some specific sockets tho. 14mm 12 point. for the four bolts that hold the wheel bearing. an a 1' 1/16 socket for the axel. raise truck. take off tires. remove brake caliper. an zip tie out of way. dont let it hang. remove diff cover an drain. remove c.a.d cover. remove stupid arm. undo the 4 14mm holding wheel bearing. u dont even have to undo ball joints. or the big 1 1/16th axle nut if u dont want to. whole axle with rotor an wheel bearing will slide out through knuckle. then remove carrier. make sure that everything goes back exactly where it came from. bearings on same sides. same with bearing caps. they have to go back same side same direction. so mark everything. then its just bang old seals out. put new ones in, coat outer edge with rtv. then reassemble. but some grease on the end of the axels an try not to tear the new seal putting them in. good luck. dont be scared. if u have some tools an u take ur time an look at it, u can get it done.

flatbedr's Sig:98 12v arp head studs.#10 fuel plate. 4000gsk. 191 dvs. bosch x2 100hp injectors.150lbs valve springs. tunnel ram intake .industrial inj silver 64. pdi exhaust manifold. afe cold air with torque tube. 4in straight. pacbrake exhaust brake. airdog 165. afe intake. tork tek over flow valve. 215 plug. colt big stick cam. snow water cooler. BD intercooler. valair dual disk. dyna trac 60. 35 spline axels. free spin. hubs.
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  #9  
Old 08-11-2012, 10:09 PM
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here s better tip for pushing off the hub assembly use a 10 inch 1/2 extension and put the extension where the back of the lug nuts are and the lower control amr put the truck up on jacks and use the powersteering to push em off it works like a charm done it several times.

RanchhandTCR's Sig:1998.5 Dodge Cummins 24 Valve (Its A CUMMINS!) 3 inch straight pipe exhaust. Fuel, Trany, Boost/EGT Westach guages. DPS Exhaust manifold. Alaska PCM, 2008 Dodge rims fitted with Cooper S/T Maxx 26570R17. Bambi Basher, Rolling Arsenal. Colorado Cummins.
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  #10  
Old 08-12-2012, 07:56 PM
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i take that back. the hardest part by far is the right axle seal. its a bitch to get in. u will need a buddy or a special seal driver. there is a sweet video on youtube tho. type in 98 dodge ramm 2500 right axle seal. an this guy shows u some tricks.
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