24 Valve 2nd Gen Dodge Cummins 98.5-02Discussion of 24 Valve 5.9 Liter Dodge Cummins Diesels with VP44 Injection Pumps
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What kind of pain am i looking at getting into to swap one of these out? Noticed a small leak under my passenger's side spindle. then discovered the spindle itself is covered. I have never had the front end of a bigger truck apart, is ... JOIN NOW TO REMOVE TRACER
What kind of pain am i looking at getting into to swap one of these out? Noticed a small leak under my passenger's side spindle. then discovered the spindle itself is covered. I have never had the front end of a bigger truck apart, is this going to be a good reason to talk the wife into a better air tool setup?
This is where you might also think of going to a "Free Spin Kit" to disconnect the hubs from drive line.
Advantages - bigger/better wheel bearings that can be re-greased or replaced (rather than replacing the entire hub assembly); the differential isn't a "load" - always spinning with the wheels - so your MPGs can improve, turning can be easier, and front drive line components (including differential seals) last longer.
Disadvantage .... COST (Ouch!) I did mine - about $1600 for the kit - but I think it was worth it.
Face it - to get access to major front drive line components, there is a fair amount of time/effort for disassembly - so, while it is apart, consider upgrades to improve the dang thing!
... for once i dont like to say it, we are in the same boat i have a smal leak from both sides and need to tair it down and do the seals i cant afford 1600 dollars... ima going to tear mine down soon il let you know how it goes.. like a list of time and maybe so helpful pointers
The Following User Says Thank You to scottmorgan For This Useful Post:
Hardest part will be getting the wheel bearing/hub assembly off. When you are to that point turn your steering wheel as far as you can depending on which side you are working so that the back of the hub is towards the front of the truck.. There are 4 bolts if I remeber right that hold the hub to the axle housing. Back those out a bit then put a socket on them as to not ruin the heads of the bolts, and whack the sh*t out of them with a good size hammer. Approach it as they are siezed to them like super glue.
The Following User Says Thank You to vcustoms86 For This Useful Post:
this isnt a hard job. u do need some specific sockets tho. 14mm 12 point. for the four bolts that hold the wheel bearing. an a 1' 1/16 socket for the axel. raise truck. take off tires. remove brake caliper. an zip tie out of way. dont let it hang. remove diff cover an drain. remove c.a.d cover. remove stupid arm. undo the 4 14mm holding wheel bearing. u dont even have to undo ball joints. or the big 1 1/16th axle nut if u dont want to. whole axle with rotor an wheel bearing will slide out through knuckle. then remove carrier. make sure that everything goes back exactly where it came from. bearings on same sides. same with bearing caps. they have to go back same side same direction. so mark everything. then its just bang old seals out. put new ones in, coat outer edge with rtv. then reassemble. but some grease on the end of the axels an try not to tear the new seal putting them in. good luck. dont be scared. if u have some tools an u take ur time an look at it, u can get it done.
here s better tip for pushing off the hub assembly use a 10 inch 1/2 extension and put the extension where the back of the lug nuts are and the lower control amr put the truck up on jacks and use the powersteering to push em off it works like a charm done it several times.
The Following User Says Thank You to RanchhandTCR For This Useful Post:
i take that back. the hardest part by far is the right axle seal. its a bitch to get in. u will need a buddy or a special seal driver. there is a sweet video on youtube tho. type in 98 dodge ramm 2500 right axle seal. an this guy shows u some tricks.
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