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1st Generation Dodge Cummins 89-93 Discussion of 12 Valve 5.9 Liter Dodge Cummins Diesels with Rotary Injection Pumps

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i have a 92 dodge 1 ton with cummins diesel 5 spd . The ecm is bad and of course none are to be found. what type and year voltage regulator can i get to keep my battery charged..... and how do i wire it?... JOIN NOW TO REMOVE TRACER

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  #1  
Old 08-15-2011, 09:24 PM
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Default alternator not charging ECM bad

i have a 92 dodge 1 ton with cummins diesel 5 spd . The ecm is bad and of course none are to be found. what type and year voltage regulator can i get to keep my battery charged..... and how do i wire it?
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Old 08-15-2011, 11:11 PM
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How do you kow if your ECM is bad? I have a 92 4x4 dually 5spd and it wasnt charging when i bought it so i put a new alternator and put new terminals and new ends on all wires goin to battery and a new battery but still no charge but i just havent gotten around to checkin the alternator it's self havent had time to take it off to take to o'reileys
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  #3  
Old 08-16-2011, 09:36 PM
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Default 92 dodge cummins 5 spd

i know my ECM is bad. i have two 92's both identical. put ECM for bad 92 into the good one and the same thing happens in that truck
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Old 10-04-2011, 06:03 AM
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Did you ever get this figured out? If not, I may have found the wiring diagram you (Well: 'we' actually) need to fix this......

millco's Sig:Dan
06 SLT 'D50' 4x4 Megasized SRW with a 48RE. I've added: 2 micron fuel filter, Road Armor front bumper w/ PIAAs, Are top, 60 HP tips, TransGo shift kit, Mag Hytec in the middle and rear. Truck is a little 'Smarter' now too . . .
73 Int'l Crew Cab currently getting a '90 12VCummins and some other good things!!.....
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Old 10-04-2011, 07:31 AM
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The voltage regulator on the 92-92 trucks is an internal unit inside the control module. If this goes out, you can mount an external voltage regulator like the earlier first gens used.

A bad crankshaft position sensor will also cause your voltage regulator to not charge the altenator. You can also get by this by doing the following:


The two terminals on the alternator for the regulator are interchangable. The alternator is a dumb alternator for an external regulator. The PCM is that regulator normally. The alternator does not care weather it is controlled by the PCM or a regulator. The PCM is not affected by not being hooked to the alternator.

The two terminal regulator has the contacts in the shape of a pyrimid. One terminal is missing. The missing terminal and one other terminal are at the base of the pyrimid.

Ok, hook the two alternator terminals to the two regulator terminals. Does no matter which goes to which. Now run a 12 volt line from an ignition source to the top regulator terminal along with the alternator wire. Thats it except you need a good ground from the alternator to the regulator case. On a second gen get that power from the output of the ASD relay.

A little note on this system. I have doen several of them and helped a few do this change. If you hook the 12 volt up to the wrong regulator terminal, it does fry the regulator. Not much problem, seven bucks gets another one.

Mine has been running this was for a year and over 100,000 miles

The terminals for the regulator can be just the round female terminals that are used for connecters on lights and other places or go to an older junk yard and cut the plug from about any old chrysler product.

Thanks to Haulin In Dixie for the instructions.
This had been posted in the thread 4 down from this one about not charging.

Gots_a_sol's Sig:93 D250 Ext. cab, short bed - NV4500, hummer h2 wheels, gauges, 4" DE exhaust, BHAF, pump tweaks, 366 spring, GM Hydro-boost, Taurus electric fan, On board air.
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Old 02-11-2013, 02:01 AM
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Default external voltage reg mod 1993 d250

I did the volt reg mod on my d250......works great. But my issue now is the voltage runs about 16-18 vdc.........my lights always pulse like i am flashing them. It looks this way at idle but when i drive down the road it smooths out from flashing. The voltage stays high though. What gives????? When my exhaust brake activates the lights smooth out and look normal, not flashing. Like it likes the load on it. Also the voltage goes back to 13-14 vdc. When i deactivate the load....it starts flashing all my lights again and voltage is back up 18vdc......plz help
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  #7  
Old 02-12-2013, 10:07 PM
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Does anybody know if the ECM is serviceable or cleanable? Im thinking that its probably got 20 years of grime in there and cleaning it out would solve some of my intermittent issues. I've been having ECM related intermittent charging issues as well as one of my grid heaters sticking on and a couple other things. I did my testing and found that the charging issue is the ECM not grounding the field coil wire of the alternator. I had an issue with charging just over a year ago and found that the field wire was broken right at the plug to the ECM but this time the wire is good.

FYI: the alternator field wire is pin# 20 on the ecm plug which is the top wire, furthest towards the rear of the truck, and I believe its dark green. At the other end, its connected to the top lug of the two smaller lugs on the back of the alternator.

That93Guy's Sig:1993 White Cummins Auto to NV4500 conversion, with a Utility-box bed, straight-pipe single 4" stack, 33" BFG/AT's, and a Miller Bobcat 225. Im a welder and NAPA parts salesman going to school to be an Engineer and I bought it to do work and to haul around my toys for the most part. Bought my truck in February 2011 and Im learning about it at somewhat of an advancing rate.
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  #8  
Old 02-18-2013, 10:26 AM
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My nemesis, electrical gremlins - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum Just get a good ole old style regulator and wire it up like the older trucks and be done with it..... ERCK Chrysler Dodge Jeep Alternator External Voltage Regulator Conversion Kit Its common for the pcm to go bad and make the alternator not charge. I got tired of it and figured out how to use a ford regulator and make it work without the pcm. Part numbers: OE #9PZ10316A, E2PZ10316A, GR433, 544A, 540B The regulator has four prongs (IASF) but only use three ASF. Wiring First find a spot to mount the regulator.Be sure the regulator is mounted and grounded good before you turn the key on. (I mounted mine above the pcm) A-goes to the +battery cable on the alternator (Large post) S-goes to the ignition switch or wire thanks hot when the key is on F- goes to one of the smaller post on the alternator (it doesent matter which one) Be sure to unhook the two old wires on these small posts On the other smaller post hook a wire on it then hook it up the the ground on the alternator __________________ 97 dodge 3500 drw nv4500 single cab western hauler with a few mods http://www.neweradiesel.com
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Screamin' Metal's Sig:If it ain't Long, Lowered, Flat Black, Belchin' Black Smoke and don't
have at least 1 turbo, It Ain't About Sh_t!-SCREAMIN' METAL



Last edited by Screamin' Metal; 02-18-2013 at 11:10 AM..
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