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1st Generation Dodge Cummins 89-93 Discussion of 12 Valve 5.9 Liter Dodge Cummins Diesels with Rotary Injection Pumps

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this is my first diesel i dont want to sound stupid but do i need to use a specific type of oil for a diesel then a gasoline truck? what should i use?... JOIN NOW TO REMOVE TRACER

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  #1  
Old 02-19-2011, 10:13 PM
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Default oil type?

this is my first diesel i dont want to sound stupid but do i need to use a specific type of oil for a diesel then a gasoline truck? what should i use?
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Old 02-19-2011, 10:22 PM
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I prefer 15W40 Valvoline blue, But they do require a 15W40 Grade oil for proper protection of internal components. There are some synthetic blends that are available in other weights but make sure their full synthetic if not 15W40. The synthetics can protect at even when they are extremely thin unlike conventional oils.
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Old 02-19-2011, 11:10 PM
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What about straight 30w in the summer? I'm just curious since we are on the subject of oil.

white93's Sig:1993 D-250. A few towing mods.
1991 D-250 Bone Stock.
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Old 02-19-2011, 11:16 PM
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i use chevron delo oil 25 / 50 year round and add some lucas oil stabilizer . diesel oil has special additives and should be used. specialy in the early trucks. ithink its the zinc or zdp levels that are important.also diesel is a higher detergent oil .

crazy clem's Sig:SNAFU 92 w250 pump turned up , bhaf, exhaust flowmaster, lagmaster turbo upgrade, isspro tach, banks boost, and pyro, tcs converter, kelderman air ride.
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Old 02-19-2011, 11:31 PM
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Crazy Clem is correct. Diesel oil has an additive blend that is designed for diesels. It deals with sooting, fuel dilution, higher pressure and higher heat much better.
I would just watch running stabilizer of any sort and verify what your getting in any additional additive package. Most are fine but some can cause internal damage and adverse affects on the ability of the oil to create the high pressure layer. (slick 50 ) I personally dont run any additives but thats not to say theres anything wrong with them. Blackstone does an analysis that can get you an idea of where your current oil lacks and gains.
I've never seen a 30W in a diesel based package in this area but thats not to say they dont make it.
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  #6  
Old 02-20-2011, 01:27 AM
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Originally Posted by white93 View Post
What about straight 30w in the summer? I'm just curious since we are on the subject of oil.
nothing wrong with a straight wait you actually have to run a 30W or 40W in some diesels because a multi viscosity oil brakes down too fast. the nice thing about running multi viscosity is that it flows almost as good cold as it dose hot if that makes sense. JMO on oil additives there people that go to school for many years and get lots of money to design oil for say the guys at chevron make Delo 400 15w40 they intend for it to work in most all applications and running additive can counter act the "good" things in oil. my thing is if they dont put it in it dont need to be in there. That is not in all cases tho if you have something that requires running an additive then by all means use it. I personally think that running things like lucas, marvel mystery, ect is more or less a joke as I have seen motors last 500,000 + with no oil related damages when rebuilding IE: lack of lubrication, sludge, ect something that you will want to be carefull with is that if you do not know what the PO has ran for oil and how often it was changed you can have buildup then if you start running high detergent like delo, rotella, or even some syn oils do a oil change at 1/2 of the miles you normal would (so change at 1500 if you normally change at 3000) and change the filter at least 2-4 times during that first new oil change I also like to cut my filters open and see what is being picked up oil analysis is a great thing to do as well for 25 bucks its worth it to see if your having any problems!

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Last edited by big bad diesel 416; 02-20-2011 at 01:33 AM..
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Old 02-20-2011, 10:44 AM
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my 93' has beening running either rotella or delvac sine I got it in 97' without any additives. I just changed valve cover gaskets and it was clean as a whistle under there.

johnnyreb's Sig:almost Bone stock 93' CTD club cab, flat bed, Muffler delete and straight pipes, Old SMokey mount air intake, 366 gov spring , full fuel screw to stop, fuel pin turned, star ring down 1 rev, Autometer 100 psi boost gauge, VDO 1600 pyro, autometer dual gauge pod.
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Old 02-20-2011, 12:29 PM
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so how low is too low when it comes to zddp additives ,they keep on reducing content in the new formulations ? from what ive read, a stock flat tappet cam can experience in excess of 200 000 psi at point of lifter foot contact with cam lobe and thats with stock springs. sorry in advance for the thread hijack?
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Old 02-20-2011, 12:59 PM
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While we are on oil talk. How many miles do you guys drive before changing the oil.

Smarty=Cummins's Sig:2001 Cummins has a built 47re, TC lock-up switch, 150hp injectors, AFE Intake with John Deere Filter , Smarty/Edge Comp Hot Unlock, Stage 3 Snow Performance, 63-68-13 Turbo, ARP Studs, Aftermarket Intake Horn, AirDog 150, Pyro, Boost, Fuel, Trans Temp gauges

Pulling Truck 1977 Chevy 454 bored 30 over, bigger cam, holly carb.
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  #10  
Old 02-20-2011, 01:21 PM
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ifollow the manuals intervals , 6months or 6000 miles , but does that change on a motor thats getting more fuel , or has more miles on the rings ? man this dodge makes me think too much . me mill wright , me use hammer , me use torch, thinking makes me head hurt
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