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1st Generation Dodge Cummins 89-93 Discussion of 12 Valve 5.9 Liter Dodge Cummins Diesels with Rotary Injection Pumps

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well i got another question guys. every once in a while my truck has been doing this but recently it does it all the time. when i turn my key the truck does nothing. there is no clicking no nothin just silence. i have replaced ... JOIN NOW TO REMOVE TRACER

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Old 01-17-2010, 05:43 PM
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well i got another question guys. every once in a while my truck has been doing this but recently it does it all the time. when i turn my key the truck does nothing. there is no clicking no nothin just silence. i have replaced the starter relay on the drivers side fenderwell. new battery cables, new battery and its got a 3 month old starter on it. any ideas ? its stareting to become a real nuisance.

GeneralC's Sig:1991 W250 metallic blue with getrag. pump maxed. 3200 gov spring. 6" MBRP mitre cut stacks. 62mm s300. 6X16s with airdog 150. 18" moto metals and dual disk clutch
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Old 01-17-2010, 06:35 PM
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starter contacts I would say

LarryB's Dodge starting problems solved here.

Whit's Sig:"Enjoy the day. Take what you want and leave the rest...."
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Old 01-17-2010, 06:37 PM
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i would check the wire on top of the starter and see if its constantly gettin juice when cranking. it could possibly be a bad ignition switch

tltruckparts's Sig:1995 Chevy K2500, 1993 Cummins P Pumped 12 valve Turbo Diesel IC, Getrag 5 speed w/ southbend clutch, NP205 Transfercase, SAS w/ GM Dana 60 front. custom fabbed coil suspension, AAM 11.5 rear, BFG MT 35's. SDX 5x14 injectors, PhatShaft 62, airdog II 165, Autometer EGT, Boost, & Fuel Pressure, hydraulic steering. and a few moore goodies
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Old 01-17-2010, 09:38 PM
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Theres a wire coming off the positive terminal that goes into a plug, I think one is brown and one is red or pink. Check those wires I had one of them wear through and did the same thing. I can't remember which one though. I don't have a dodge at the house or I'd look.

921stgen's Sig:91.5 W250 rusty P.O.S., pods, no afc, pull cable, AM electric FP gauge, Isspro boost, pyro, 366 spring, 91 W350 parts truck, sold-92 W250, 4" lift, 5" AEM intake, 4" exhaust 5" stack, Bully Dog Fuel Pin, pull cable, 366 spring, AM electric FP gauge, Isspro boost, pyro, tach
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Old 01-17-2010, 10:19 PM
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Originally Posted by 921stgen View Post
Theres a wire coming off the positive terminal that goes into a plug, I think one is brown and one is red or pink. Check those wires I had one of them wear through and did the same thing. I can't remember which one though. I don't have a dodge at the house or I'd look.
I just went out and checked my 92 and the brown wire goes to the starter solenoid.The pink wire goes to the battery.

440warwagon's Sig:MY WIFE YES MY DOG MAYBE MY DODGE NEVER!92W250 518 pump turned up a bit and a bully dog pin,trans n converter next!
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Old 01-17-2010, 10:49 PM
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Default wiring diagram

va089242 92diesel.pdf
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Old 01-17-2010, 10:52 PM
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Check your clutch switch if you have no power at the brown wire.
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Old 01-18-2010, 10:41 AM
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i really dont believe its the starter contacts cause theres no clicking when i turn the key. i believe im gonna buy another starter relay and also a clutch switch that way everything is new. its not gettin power to the starter i dont believe. does anyone know where the clutch switch is? oh and warwagon thanks alot for that diagram ie looked all over for one of those. thanks guys

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

Ok guys is the clutch switch behind the clutch pedal around a rod? And it has two yellow wires comin off of it. Could u just cut them two wires and join em together and bypass the switch? That way u wouldn't have to push the clutch or nothin. Could u also wire a toggle switch into tht way it could be a safety switch almost that way the truck wouldn't start? Thanks again

Last edited by GeneralC; 01-18-2010 at 10:41 AM.. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old 01-18-2010, 11:58 AM
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the clutch switch provides a ground for your starter relay... if thet ground is bad (often are) bypassing the CSS will accomplish nothing...


Find the relay, connect an artificial ground to the terminal with the brown and yellow wire... this will ensure the relay is grounded without hacking your wire harness...

what you could do is use a voltmeter and check for voltage at the connector feeding the CSS - one of the wires should receive battery voltage with the ignition in the crank position.... The other wire should test out as a ground (if it does not show ground add the wire I mentioned in my previous paragraph).

Once you have power going into the CSS, and a ground leaving you should at least hear the relay click when you attempt to crank.. if you do not then you know that either the relay or CSS is bad...


Once you get the realy to click, if the engine still does not turn check for voltage going into the relay (black or red?), if you have battery voltage going into the relay, check for power) leaving (brown?) no power leaving relay = bad relay.

If everything has checked good so far hook the + lead of your voltmeter the the relay output (brown?) and the - lead to the starter solenoid, check the voltage when cranking (or attempting to) it should be .3V (300mV) or less, if it is more you have a bad wire from the relay to solenoid
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Old 01-18-2010, 12:31 PM
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Easiest check is to swap relays...
They're all the same so unplug one and use it in place of the starter relay.
If it starts you need a new relay.
If it doesn't - then go further in troubleshooting...

unixcowboy's Sig:'93 D250 CC HX-40 60/65/17 w/hx50 flange - hit 57 held 55 psi OOPS => 6x16's <=, PS IC, 366 spring w/2 turns clipped, power screw max backed off 1 1/2 turns, M2 power pin, removed limit washer, smoke screw fully out, starwheel 4 up - modified top to get pin higher, '94 built trans-clutches and some hard parts, 4510 w/4 1/2" intake and heat shield, htr grids MIA, 4" dp -> 5" pipe -> 5" Stack, 285's rear 265's front
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