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| 1st Generation Dodge Cummins 89-93 Discussion of 12 Valve 5.9 Liter Dodge Cummins Diesels with Rotary Injection Pumps |
Does anybody know how much those Goerend torque converters are for the 727's or what my best options would be at this point? What is the price difference between stock and aftermarket. im beyond broke already and now Im without a vehicle for the second ... JOIN NOW TO REMOVE TRACER
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#1
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Does anybody know how much those Goerend torque converters are for the 727's or what my best options would be at this point? What is the price difference between stock and aftermarket. im beyond broke already and now Im without a vehicle for the second time in a month after 3 years of reliable service out of my Dodge, that thing is killin me here lately
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#2
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if you are strapped for cash buy a cheap one off fleabay.... it will get you rolling better than you are now..... then in the future get the tranny built up nice with a good converter.....
that is what i would do..... |
| The Following User Says Thank You to Benjamin For This Useful Post: | ||
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#3
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Thanks Ben, I had it towed to the shop they are gonna look at tomorrow. It has been kinda weak for about the last week and today was the first time i really had a place to get on it for more than a second or two and it shifted thru all 3 gears but was weak feelin power wise, then I felt somethin let go and the engine was revving up with no forward motion anymore. I've got no forward or reverse gears and there is a weird metal grinding noise inside the bellhousing right behind the flywheel and at first there was a few puffs of smoke out of the bottom of the bellhousing after I pulled off with the truck still idling. IDK what happened but the torque converter seems like the logical place to start. I looked at the fluid on the dipstick and it still was red, not burnt at all and right where it is supposed to be fluid level wise.
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#4
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either the converter or the input shaft, could be both.... i have seen the splines shear off the shaft and the converter on a powerstroke 4 times before the guy decided it was monetarily a better decision to replace the $13 stock input shaft with a billet aftermarket one, he was tired of pulling the tranny every month....
do you hear the tranny shift into the gears when you go from forward to reverse? if not then it is the above, if you can hear a little clunk or hear some grinding then i'd venture to say it is something internal.... could always look at putting a handshaker in there..... but that would be more than getting the auto going..... what about getting a junk yard tranny put in for the time being? that could be another option.... |
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#5
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No, you cant hear it shift gears at all. Something right up in the front sounds likie it is grinding on the flywheel, could even hear it while the starter was turning to fire it back up. I forgot I had my new manual fuel shutoff cable off pulled out and cranked the engine over a few times. Hopefully it wont be any big deal, the transmission has been a good one and was rebuilt right before I bought the truck.
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#6
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torque converter bolts.... if they are not tight they will rub the bell housing I have run into that on a couple instances
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#7
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Will that make the truck not move anymore?
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#8
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it will make that noise and if all snapped it wont move. input shaft could also have snapped and also the transmission could have bit the dust mine was rebuilt before i bought it and it bit the dust recently. no reverse and slipping in forward gears when I got it home
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| The Following User Says Thank You to 440ctd For This Useful Post: | ||
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#9
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My money's on his flexplate has the center hub torn out (a common thing with stock/OEM 1st gens).
![]() - Replace it with a stock 2nd gen flexplate.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to BC847 For This Useful Post: | ||
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#10
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Does anybody have any pictures or drawings of what is in there? I cant say I've ever pulled an automatic transmission out of anything
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#11
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In a nutshell:
- Remove the torque converter's bolts that attach it to the flex-plate. ![]() - Remove the transmission fluid lines from the trans. ![]() - Disconnect the shift/TV linkage. ![]() - Disconnect the drive-shaft. ![]() - Remove the rear mounting bolts. - Remove the bell-housing bolts. - Slide the thing back with the torque converter still in the bell-housing . . .. To expose the flex-plate. ![]() I figure your flex-plate is cracked/broken around and in those webs. ![]() In this image, I've got a stock/OEM 1st gen flexplate nested in a later/newer flex-plate. You can see that the newer one is much thicker.
Last edited by BC847; 12-01-2009 at 03:22 PM.. |
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#12
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Jason I have a stock 1st gen replacemant you can have. (if I can find it) its not much better then what you had but it is free. David on a side note... The one I pulled out of mine looked like this, never seen a solid one... Was this a stocker?
Last edited by RSWORDS; 12-01-2009 at 11:23 PM.. |
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#14
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---AutoMerged DoublePost--- Well, looks like its tranny rebuild time. The rebuild kit is 95 dollars, plu the torque converter and whatever else is broken. Book labor on it is 5.6 hrs to take the transmission out and put it back in and 7.3hrs to take out, rebuild, and put it back. Not soundin like to bad a deal so far. Anybody got any insights they could share. IDK nothin about automatic transmissions Last edited by jasonfriedlin; 12-02-2009 at 03:40 PM.. Reason: Automerged Doublepost |
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#15
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Ben... Get out of here with your common sence and reason!!!
Good thought...
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