so while i just pulled out my injection pump i wanted to kill the kdp problem as well. but ive looked at all the pics and mine looks completely different. anyone know why mine looks different than everyone elses? and is there a different way to fix this case. here is a pic. thanks

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tltruckparts's Sig:

1995 Chevy K2500, 1993 Cummins 12 valve Turbo Diesel IC, Auto Trans 46rh (518) w/ OD,
NP205 Transfercase, SAS w/ GM Dana 60 front, Corporate 14 1 ton rear with disc brake conversion on 35's. 1/8" timing bump, upgraded pump with 3200 spring, SDX 5x14 injectors, airdog II 165, Autometer Ultra-Lite EGT, Boost, and Trans Temp gauges, M&H M3 Fuel Pin

Looking at the picture, I see no reason why you couldn't put a step in your tab (if you were planning on using a tab). what I mean by a step is if you looking at the tab from the side it will look like a step in a set of stairs.

I had to do that when I tabbed my pin. How were you planning on fixing it? Are you using a kit or just planning on buying seals and gaskets and peening the area around the pin? -

i almost just though about using this glue compound i found at the auto store that has the tensile strength of a weld its some nasty stuff. i dont need gaskets and a seal i already have them. if i dont do that (i dont know if itd be bad or not) than i will just build a tab. -

Ive never heard of the glue stuff being used but I cant see why it wouldn't. Make sure you put locktite around the bolts in the timing case too. They have a tendency to fall out and can cause just as much damage. I think there are 5 or 6 of them. -

I've seen the damage that the timing case cover bolts can do. Camshaft broken into 3 pieces 6 bent push rods. The only good point was that the engine was still good.

Bob -

Bob Beauchaine's Sig:

1993 CTD 4X2 Horton Fan, Green HP Air Filter, Custon Air Intake, Banks IC, Tim Worline Intake Horn, 14cm2, PDRHX35, ATS EXH,15%+VE, Denny T Sage II, 3200 GSK DD3 Injectors, BD Exh. Brake, 4" Rip Rook EXH, NV4500HD, SB Clutch & Guages Snow WM -394/888 on #2 - 441/889 WM

harold makes tab kits for both the 2nd gens and stepped tabs for the first gens. as far as i know harold is the only one making 1st gen specific tabs. [member hbowers]

and ditto to bobs post. was nasty carnage from the bolt coming out. witnessed more than 1 with a bolt coming out and witnessed lots of dowel pins out in both 1st and 2nd gens. -

MUDDY's Sig:

97 D3500 FLATBED
LOTS AND LOTS OF GOODIES. 385/837 TO THE WHEELS

81 "VETTE". DIESEL POWERED

for idaho event discussion check here http://www.dieselbombers.com/groups/idaho-bombers.html

you need to tab the dowel w/a stepped tab,take out the bolts one at a time,clean bolt and hole w/brake cleaner and compressed air,and loc-tite bolts. they are 5 bolts inside
case. you can remove 4 of them (one at a time) THE5TH ONe about all you can do is make sure its tight w/ abent 10mm open end wrench.
If a bolt ever falls out it will do more damage than the dowel pin will. 1n 1st gens a bolt is as apt to fall outas the dowel pin. -

I have seen people bend a peice of thin steel rod (think coat hanger size) to tab the KDP. Moght be an easier solution. -

RSWORDS's Sig:

would the glue idea or jb weld work or is that not a good idea? my guess is it it keeps the tab from falling out it does the job am i right? -

If it was my truck i would'nt glue it cause i would always be worrying if it was gonna hold. just build a step tab or make a small shim for a flat tab. good luck -

dgfordman's Sig:

89 dodge 250 cummins with a tweaked pump, rolls the coal but needs a new trans. 95 dodge 3500 4x4 c&b flat bed, 100 plate, tuned afc, 3.5" down 4" out the back. 5 speed that needs a south bend . smokin out one city block at a time, and an 01 2500 6spd 4x4 with edge ez. south bend canidate also