well for some reason i just cant stop these radiator problems ive been having. my fan has taken out my radiator twice now because the chevy engine bay just isnt as deep as the dodge.

well after all these problems i have given up on making the dodge radiator fit at 400 dollars a piece. i had a camaro radiator on the side of my house sitting so i threw it in. its the same width so it fits between the intercooler. its about 3 inches shorter and 3/4" skinner so it fits much better with no chance of the fan hitting.

my question is will this radiator do ok for daily driving. im not going to be towing much with this truck i have others for that purpose. but do you guys think the radiator will keep the truck running cool enough for normal driving? thanks all -

tltruckparts's Sig:

1995 Chevy K2500, 1993 Cummins 12 valve Turbo Diesel IC, Auto Trans 46rh (518) w/ OD,
NP205 Transfercase, SAS w/ GM Dana 60 front, Corporate 14 1 ton rear with disc brake conversion on 35's. 1/8" timing bump, upgraded pump with 3200 spring, SDX 5x14 injectors, airdog II 165, Autometer Ultra-Lite EGT, Boost, and Trans Temp gauges, M&H M3 Fuel Pin

Drive it and find out. I would think it would get ot towing or sitting at idle -

Buck08's Sig:

07 Dodge 5.9 mega cab, 6 sp, smarty, SB 3600 DD

02 Excursion, 7.3, limited, 4x4, ts 6 pos, triple pillar

95 2wd dodge project drag truck

How about swapping the fan? There is a 2 speed electric fan from teh V6 Taurus that pulls CRAZY air. They can be found in junk yards for like $20. You can tell its a 2 speed by the 3 wires. Ground, Low, and High. -

RSWORDS's Sig:

do you know about how deep the electric fan is. i only have like 2 1/2" between harmonic balancer and radiator -

if you only have 2 1/2" how is your stock fan fitting at all? -

it barely fits, by like 1/2" at the most. do all the radiators from these have those 2 wires that wrap around the radiator? that is what caused the problem one time it hit that bent the blade and sent it through the radiator.

i dont know how other guys who have done the conversion have got so much room in the bay ive done everything i can to get more room. i cant sit the intercooler or radiator any further forward at all. thats why im wondering about a little smaller radiator -

Any good pics of what your working with?

You need a fan from a 88-95 Taurus/Mercury w/ 3.8L V6 (make sure it has 3 wires in the plug). They are capable of up to 3900CFM and are about 5" deep... Pretty low profile for an electric fan. They pull up to 130 amps at startup but once running the only pull around 40 amps on high afterwards. Most people run a 75amp relay and 10 gauge wire. I used to run one on my Yota and it was bad ass. Dont think I ever used the high speed. One wire is ground, one is high, and one is low. If you power up the low and high at the same time the fan will run slower then on the low setting and might burn up the motor.

This one is from a Mark VIII, its a little bit larger shroud.

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Looking at your pics I think when you remove the stock fan you will have plenty of room. As far as the radiator, I woudl not go smaller unless it was teh absolute last resort. These engine make ALOT of heat. -

i will go look for one of those probably tomorrow or so. do you by chance have the width and height measurement so i can try and see how things will fit. and it is only 5" deep at the center? how deep is it at the bottom near the crank pulley -

Not sure on that. I'll see what I can find. -

get the transmission its own cooling system separate from the tank on the side of the engine and the radiator. this'll allow the coolant to be used to pull heat only from the engine if the smaller radiator is your only option. get on summit racing and look around their electric fans. i found one not too long ago that's the perfect heighth but just a TAD bit too wide for the factory radiator but it wont make too much of a difference. i believe it huffed like 5500 cfm or just a wee bit less -

tower_ofpower's Sig:

One thing i learned in college: DON'T!!! stick your fingers where you wouldn't stick Mr. Happy 89' W250, full fuel 1 1/2 turns, smoke screw flush with the lock, stock pin mildly ground, 1/8th timing bump whole truck refreshing in progress. Soon to be: fuel pin, 366 spring, smooth wall intake tubes once i actually start stock piling some money, turbo and manifold swap, 4" exhaust; 5 if it'll fit. and nozzles.

well ig ot everything figured out today. when i took out my radiator i noticed my itnercooler was abdley bent, causing the bottom of the radiator to stick way out. so i pulled the intercooler and straightened it back to almost perfect. must have been like that since i put it in and not noticed since the truck hasnt gone anywhere yet.

well i straightened it and put the radiator back in, and now i have a solid inch of room between the fan and the radiator. so i dropped the radiator off to the radiator repair place and they fixed it for 37 bucks.

so tomorrow i will put it back in and im hoping that will fix the problem and it wont happen again.

next question; is the fan shroud absolutely necessary? the dodge one is toot all and hits the hood and the chevy one is too short and hits the fan. do i absolutely need one? -

it would be a very good idea. the shroud makes shure the fan is pulling air through the rad and not from pulling air from around the rad. so it will help with cooling efficientcy -

seandonato73's Sig:

1990 Dodge W250, custom intercooler, 4" turbo back exhaust,DDRP fass pump, 3200rpm gov spring, injection pump maxed out, 80hp DDP injectors, upgraded intake housing and compressor wheel,auto meter pyro,boost, fuel pres,and oilpres guages
comming soon: m&h fuel pin set(m2-m5) ,Air dog II fuel pump

1993 F150 264,000 miles on the 302, 6" lift 35x14.50 thornbirds,and still pullen jeeps out of the mud!!
1987 f250 6.9 IDI c6 auto, 2wd beater
1973 F250 hi boy 4x4, 360FE 37" TSL's no lift

it sounds like it would be better to run electric fans to me more benificial -

hotcummins's Sig:

12v 5x18s injectors 191 delivery valves 3k springs aroura5000 single i built the all billet tranny and ats 5 disc converter #100 fuel plate fire ringed arp head studs timing 22.0 degrees tabbed kdp quick spool cam and exhaust manifold 5 inch turbo back exhaust w/ 6 inch tip afe intake k&n cold air water meth injection airdog2 165








http://www.dieseldawgs.com/

fan shroud is absolutely necessary ; it doesnt pull air from around the radiator w/o the shround in place so much as it "whips and throws" it around instead of actually causing an area of low pressure to pull from the front side of the radiator. trim the top or bottom of the shroud off and replace it with a piece of light gauge metal to utilize the dodges shroud. that's the route i'd try going atleast -