1st Generation Dodge Cummins 89-93 Discussion of 12 Valve 5.9 Liter Dodge Cummins Diesels with Rotary Injection Pumps

$10 Front Pump Puller

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  #1  
Old 02-28-2014, 04:28 PM
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Default $10 Front Pump Puller

Just thought I'd put it out there that the Bondo slide hammer (p/n 953; also available labeled as a 3M Corp. tool) already has the correct 3/8-16 threaded end for proper removal of all 727-based transmissions (A727, A518, A618, 46RH, 47RH/RE) and can be had at chain auto parts stores for $10 and as low as $5 on Ebay.

Just a cheap alternative to an expensive specialty tool and faster than fabbing your own up.

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Last edited by the.beard; 02-28-2014 at 04:31 PM.
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Old 02-28-2014, 04:47 PM
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also when the vb. is out its easy to go from the inside and just pop it out with a pry bar or large screw driver. always seem the easiest for me!!
 
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Old 02-28-2014, 05:29 PM
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Originally Posted by novapat
also when the vb. is out its easy to go from the inside and just pop it out with a pry bar or large screw driver. always seem the easiest for me!!
That's why I said "proper removal".
 
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Old 02-28-2014, 07:50 PM
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Originally Posted by the.beard
That's why I said "proper removal".
The proper way is to push the pump out evenly or pull it out evenly with a puller that attaches on the outside of the pump that pulls the pump and pushes in on the shaft that goes into the forward drum.. not with a 10 dollar slide hammer from one side. some people refuse to do things the correct was..
 
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Old 02-28-2014, 10:58 PM
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Originally Posted by novapat
The proper way is to push the pump out evenly or pull it out evenly with a puller that attaches on the outside of the pump that pulls the pump and pushes in on the shaft that goes into the forward drum.. not with a 10 dollar slide hammer from one side. some people refuse to do things the correct was..
Says the guy who pries his pumps out from behind with a screwdriver? Pfft.

I think the engineers at Chrysler are the go-to authorities when it comes to properly removing the front pump on the transmission they designed. Nothing in the literature says anything about pushing it out from the rear (you can only push it out from the bottom of the pump, anyway, possibly cocking it sideways in the housing). The proper way, according to Chrysler, is to either use two slide hammers simultaneously or use one slide hammer, alternating between the two threaded removal points. I bet you're the type of person who uses a claw hammer on his truck.

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The shop manual calls for Chrysler's p/n c-3752. Funny, it looks a lot more like my $10 slide hammer than a screwdriver.

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Last edited by the.beard; 02-28-2014 at 10:58 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old 02-28-2014, 11:36 PM
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Don't be upset because I have already clowned you in other topics..LOL Using 2 pry bars and pushing the pump outwards is much better than a slide hammer that will break thrust washers, sealing rings and bushings.. your prob. the guy that hits the mac tool truck and buys tools that has no idea how to use them.. I ask questions when I don't know. (like the injector thread) you seem to think you know everything on every topic.. I don't but I do when it comes to internal engine and trans building.. so go crawl back in your hole and read another do it yourself book so you can buy another 10 tool from harbor freight in the morning!!
 
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Old 03-01-2014, 12:16 AM
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. You mad, bro? You "clowned" me in other topics? Interesting, because you're not even on my radar. You amount to less than a butt pimple to me.

Maybe you should call Chrysler, Carl H. Munroe's publishers, all of the Dodge dealerships and every ASE mechanic who's ever pulled a 727 pump, because apparently we're all doing it wrong. I'm sure they'd pay you good money to amend page 21-207 of the Dodge Diesel Truck Service manual to reflect your genius idea of using a pry bar on their transmissions. What's next, pressing ball joints with a J clamp? HA!

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Ok, for y'all that may not have had the opportunity to rebuild your own transmissions yet but might want to tackle that in the future and have a hard time sifting through the garbage misinformation that gets posted on internet forums by stupid people, here is the correct way. You won't break thrust washers, bearings, races, seals or anything else, and you definitely won't mar up your transmission case by wedging a pry bar in there like a monkey.

From the Chrysler service manual:
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From "TORQUEFLITE A-727 TRANSMISSION HANDBOOK - How to Rebuild or Modify Chrysler's A-727 Torqueflite For All Applications" (page 87-88; also available electronically through Google Books):
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Last edited by the.beard; 03-01-2014 at 12:51 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old 03-01-2014, 06:02 AM
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good boy you read another book.. now go feed your moms 15 cats and have her tuck you in.. obviously you read the books for she shade tree mech. to try and fix there own stuff then when you have messed it up and destroyed the thrust you take it to the shop.. Its shops like mine that have to deal with the mess of lames like you! I am glad you got away from your mom and her 15 cats to learn what a slide hammer is,but when you build 2 trans. a day you know how to complete the jobs without even thinking about it.. Its kinda like the lug wrench they give you when you buy a car,sure it works but the pro uses impact guns and torque wrenches. your a joke!!LOL

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you sound like the ITT student that just got his ase cert.. they know everything just like you but the guy that's been building these for 30 years complete the job.. LOL
 

Last edited by novapat; 03-01-2014 at 06:02 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old 03-01-2014, 11:58 AM
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The service manual's a shade tree mechanic book? Dude, you are seriously f***ing DELUSIONAL.
 
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Old 03-01-2014, 12:19 PM
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Its there to help lames like you.. you must read your manual on how the change a tire also...LOLretard
 


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