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1st Generation Dodge Cummins 89-93 Discussion of 12 Valve 5.9 Liter Dodge Cummins Diesels with Rotary Injection Pumps

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So I am still running R12 in my 91.5 and its finally getting to the cool not cold stages. Everything works correctly, and I have never had to add anything or do anything exciting to it. A friend of mine that moonlights as a mechanic ... JOIN NOW TO REMOVE TRACER

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Old 09-02-2013, 02:43 PM
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Default A/C fix up...

So I am still running R12 in my 91.5 and its finally getting to the cool not cold stages. Everything works correctly, and I have never had to add anything or do anything exciting to it. A friend of mine that moonlights as a mechanic from his full time job as a mechanic says we can dig up some R12 and toss it in or he can convert it to 134. I know there are a bunch of posts on this conversion, for, against, and otherwise, and I've tried to read as many as I could find, but, realistically, when we recharge or convert, are there any "wear" items that are worth replacing while we have it apart? If I read ten posts, I get ten opinions, but for those of you that have done some A/C work, I'd appreciate your two cents. I only want to do this once.

Thanks-

Cree

Cree's Sig:1991 I/C 5.9 D250 ... pump turned up, 3200 spring, KDP killed, and a few other things. Still mad at the PO.
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Old 09-02-2013, 06:47 PM
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If it ain't broke don't fix it. That fact that it still works at all tells you that it is not leaking too bad. It is normal to loose a little bit of refridgerant over time. Just throw in a pound or 2 of r12 and it should work fine again.
R12 is the best, especially in a system that is designed for r12.

That's what I do to my truck. In the 10 years I've owned it, I've never pulled the AC down or repaired it, just add a pound about every 2 or 3 years. Cheap, easy, effective.

Joel Steven's Sig:1993 D350 Cummins club cab Always loaded, always towing
3.55 gears, beefed up Automatic with DTT 89 converter and manual switch for over drive, fuel screw maxed out,fuel pin rotated, timing bumped up, dowel pin killed, K&N filter, 4" exhaust, 5 x .012 injectors, HE351cw Holset turbo EGT, boost and TT guages, rear antilock killed, Bilstien shocks, head light relays, rostrum electronic cruise control
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Old 09-06-2013, 06:12 PM
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The truck only holds 38 oz if its still cooling its not that low. I would keep adding if you can find r 12. If you convert, you will put 70% of r12 capacity because r134 chemical makeup is different than 12. That being said the ac also won't perform as well. Of all the tractors I've converted from 12 to 134 they all are better than no ac but not as good as the original 12 system....

CUMMINStagetcha19's Sig:92' W250, 240k miles, 47RH equipped, 3.55 gears, 315/75/16 C/T's, 3" straight pipe, stock turbo, K&N, rebuilt VE pump, new injectors, Scheid tuned and calibrated for 250hp.
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Old 09-06-2013, 11:35 PM
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...and for those of you who need R12, you can get it on Ebay. Most of the sellers only require that you electronically sign a statement that you are going to have it installed by a licensed shop, you have the EPA certificate 609, or you are going to resell it to a licensed installer. A can at $35 including shipping is sure not what we used to pay, but all the drama of the changeover to 134 and the guesswork of the charge and the cleanup/changeover from mineral oil, as well as going to barrier hoses, etc. Since I am dealing with a known working system that has never been changed, some leakage is expected and if anything, it is working better this summer than last (cleaned evap and condensor) so I'm rolling the dice. I know I'll have to get there sooner or later, but the front brakes are eating my budget this next month, and in a few months, we'll be off the A/C for the year. For those of you who aren't sure why your truck doesn't cool, I would start with the basics of vacuum and clean, then shop for the refrigerant of choice. No sense in wasting this gold plated freon...
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