New m&h parts, which ones first
#1
New m&h parts, which ones first
So I've been in Alaska for the past three weeks fighting fire, and I'm about to come home to a m&h m4 fuel pin, 3200 gov spring, and m&h dynamic spacer. i was thinking of doing each mood one at a time then adjusting the pump as i went. This is all going on a bone stock 90 12v non i/c, with a 4"diamond eye exhaust with pyro and boost gauge. And an auto, i don't want huge amounts of smoke i just want some power with about the same millage, any thoughts would help, also i haven't seen any dyno test with the dynamic spacer, but did hear a rumor that it added 20 horse, but I'm not sure I'll dyno start to finish.
#2
Thanks for the help up here in AK. We appreciate it.
Do the timing spacer first and see how your injection pump reacts to it. Sometimes, depending on the condition of the advance spring your timing can advance some at idle and wander some. Mine is real bad in the winter, so I take it out.
Next do the pin. Take your time tuning the pump to it. Don't continue until you're happy with the results.
Last do the spring. It shouldn't affect tuning much if at all.
Before pulling the throttle lever, take careful not of the throttle shaft position in the lever. Common problem is to get them 180° out. Be prepared to have to re-index the lever and change the low idle screw position as the 3200 governor spring is stiffer.
Before you pull the AFC housing off, back your fuel screw way out. If you don't, it can bend the ACF arm inside when you put it back together and that can be bad.
Do the timing spacer first and see how your injection pump reacts to it. Sometimes, depending on the condition of the advance spring your timing can advance some at idle and wander some. Mine is real bad in the winter, so I take it out.
Next do the pin. Take your time tuning the pump to it. Don't continue until you're happy with the results.
Last do the spring. It shouldn't affect tuning much if at all.
Before pulling the throttle lever, take careful not of the throttle shaft position in the lever. Common problem is to get them 180° out. Be prepared to have to re-index the lever and change the low idle screw position as the 3200 governor spring is stiffer.
Before you pull the AFC housing off, back your fuel screw way out. If you don't, it can bend the ACF arm inside when you put it back together and that can be bad.
#3
#5
Not really, it works equally well with any level of fueling. Mainly because the stock VE pump could only deliver so much advance as it was designed. Before the spacer, people would shave up to 4mm off of the timing piston to get more travel out of it. It's greatest advantage is it allows you advanced timing without sacrificing your low end power from a timing bump. This is true regardless of what size injectors you run. Keep in mind that big injectors need more timing to start with, so those will benefit from both the spacer and a bump.
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