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1st Generation Dodge Cummins 89-93 Discussion of 12 Valve 5.9 Liter Dodge Cummins Diesels with Rotary Injection Pumps

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  #1  
Old 03-26-2013, 08:08 PM
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Default 76 dodge

I have a 93 cummins 4x4 5 speed with 103,000 original miles. I bought the with cab no bed. I found a 76 club cab what would it take to put it on the single cab 93.

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

Anybody got an idea

Last edited by Dunagan92; 03-26-2013 at 08:08 PM.. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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  #2  
Old 03-26-2013, 08:37 PM
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I think you left out a noun in that question and I'm not sure what you got now (93 Single Cab?) and what you bought (76 Club Cab) - is the 76 complete? Frame? Cab? and Bed? Plenty of guys here have made one out of two, but can you clarify a little on what hard parts you got?
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  #3  
Old 03-26-2013, 08:41 PM
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Sorry I was in a hurry. The 93 is complete except the bed. The 76 is a complete truck truck.
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Old 03-26-2013, 10:51 PM
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You're going to get two sets of answers on that. One group of us is going to say the frames are different in regards to strength, one will say they are the same. Someone is going to say how their frame was fine, someone is going to say theirs broke under the weight of the Cummins. If the Club Cab is on a 3/4 or 1 ton truck, it SHOULD be pretty close and definately should handle the weight difference. I would get out there with a measuring tape, start checking widths, lengths, etc... If you are going just swap body parts, I would suggest a lot of study and measuring. Plenty of these projects have been done, but it does take time. Most likely, your wiring is "funky" on the 93, you might as well rewire or build a new harness. 93 also does have SOME stuff running off the primitive computer under the inner fender on the driver side, esp. if you go with cruise and a slush box. You will have to cut and paste to get the Intercooler to work on the 76 grill, so you'll need to massage some stuff with the radiator support/core area. You have all the parts, but the depth of work required to even do it half-assed means you might as well go all in and do it right the first time. Check out the First-Gen pics in the stickies - couple of really nice frame-offs that should give you some great ideas on scope of work and time frame. But they sure do turn out nice!
WARNING! I have not done a frame off with a First Gen! I did enough of that with Jeeps, so the idea behind "studying the frame" comes from the two different eras of emission controls, engines, transmissions, crossmembers, clutch and pedal systems, brake systems, etc. Go online to RockAuto and look at the different parts numbers for the different years, that may also give you some ideas. AND ... document what you did. Wiring, brakes, other wear components will be a pain in the butt to remember if you don't note this stuff. If you do make your own harness, write out or label what goes where. The next guy that owns your truck will probably pay an extra grand just to know what wire goes where and what year brake components are in it.
Good luck and keep us posted!
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Old 03-27-2013, 03:13 PM
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Everything iv read said the 76 should sit right on the 93 frame with little modifications. If I put the 93 doors and fenders and hood on the 76 will the extended cab body line up?
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  #6  
Old 04-13-2013, 07:39 PM
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I bought a 75 d100 regular cab instead of the club cab. Can I remove the body panels off it and put on the 93? I want the older look of the 76 but keep the newer dash and ac.

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Anybody??

Last edited by Dunagan92; 04-13-2013 at 07:39 PM.. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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  #7  
Old 04-22-2013, 01:28 PM
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Yes, you can adapt the older cab and put it on your newer cummins powered frame. Drive your truck under a A-Frame, Pull the gear shift lever off the 5 speed, unhook your steering, wires and cables, pull the cab off, roll it outta the way. Roll the bare chassis forward. Get the cab you want, off the frame of the other truck, wheel that bare chassis backwards outta the way, roll your Cummins unit under it, and sit it down, with a couple of small pieces of 2x4's between the body and frame mounts.
The only thing you'll probably have to do is move a couple of the cab mounts to the cab brackets.....either cut them off or make some extenders. Watch your radiator clearance, that Cummins is long.
Once you get it lowered into place, just a matter of adapting things over.
You'll probably want to use your Original Dodge Cummins power brake cylinder, and the origional radiator....all other stuff should work. Don't forget to check your hole in the floorboard for shifter clearance when coming down.

Screamin' Metal's Sig:If it ain't Long, Lowered, Flat Black, Belchin' Black Smoke and don't
have at least 1 turbo, It Ain't About Sh_t!-SCREAMIN' METAL



Last edited by Screamin' Metal; 04-22-2013 at 01:32 PM..
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