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1st Generation Dodge Cummins 89-93 Discussion of 12 Valve 5.9 Liter Dodge Cummins Diesels with Rotary Injection Pumps

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  #1  
Old 01-04-2013, 02:31 AM
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Default I ordered the DennyT fuelpin 2

please tell me i made the right decision its my first mod and my first truck to
i have no aftermarket gauges but it isnt a huge mod so oh well , i am also going to straight pipe it and get a BHAF , so hopefully it works out good
and also it is easy to install the pin right ?
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  #2  
Old 01-04-2013, 08:39 AM
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i have one and it did help, can get a bit smokey though.
i would add guages to that list too, after that you can play with the pump and not worry about hurting your motor.

cummins bronco's Sig:1978 Ford Bronco
12v Cummins, ZF-5, NP 205

1990 F-350 Crewcab Short Box XLT 4x4
1997 Drivetrain 7.3 Powerstroke E4OD Dana 60 front 10.25 rear
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  #3  
Old 01-04-2013, 01:54 PM
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Originally Posted by cummins bronco View Post
i have one and it did help, can get a bit smokey though.
i would add guages to that list too, after that you can play with the pump and not worry about hurting your motor.
what gauges do i need ? , are they expensive ?
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  #4  
Old 01-04-2013, 07:58 PM
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i would definately get a pyro, other than that i like a boost guage and if you have an auto a tranny temp guage.
all three should be under $300 for good ones, Isspro or Autometer, i wouldn't waste money on cheap ones.
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  #5  
Old 01-04-2013, 08:27 PM
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Originally Posted by cummins bronco View Post
i would definately get a pyro, other than that i like a boost guage and if you have an auto a tranny temp guage.
all three should be under $300 for good ones, Isspro or Autometer, i wouldn't waste money on cheap ones.
okay ,its a sandard so i will just get the pyro for now ill spend 100 max
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  #6  
Old 01-04-2013, 11:26 PM
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We did my son's Denny T pin pretty easily. You can do yourself a little favor, as well, when you get those 4 external cover screws out of the AFC housing, just replace'em with some same-threaded TORX screws. They'll be easier to work with, if you feel the urge to get back in there. .... be careful with that banjo fitting that connects the intake manifold to the side of the injection pump. That little piece of stiff aluminum tubing isn't very forgiving. Fortunately, it's also not magic. If you break it, you can simply replace that whole piece with a couple of hose-barbs and neatly-clamped tubing.

geddy's uncle's Sig:My truck: "Tiny" '98 QC LB 2500 12-valve, G56, hybridized t-case (long story).
Son's truck: "Da Beast" '90 RamCharger, 12-valve from a '92, NV4500/NP205, matched D-60s, RhinoCoat inside and out.
Daughter's baby beast: '06 Liberty CRD, nearly bone-stock.

Last edited by geddy's uncle; 01-04-2013 at 11:28 PM..
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  #7  
Old 01-05-2013, 01:48 AM
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Originally Posted by geddy's uncle View Post
We did my son's Denny T pin pretty easily. You can do yourself a little favor, as well, when you get those 4 external cover screws out of the AFC housing, just replace'em with some same-threaded TORX screws. They'll be easier to work with, if you feel the urge to get back in there. .... be careful with that banjo fitting that connects the intake manifold to the side of the injection pump. That little piece of stiff aluminum tubing isn't very forgiving. Fortunately, it's also not magic. If you break it, you can simply replace that whole piece with a couple of hose-barbs and neatly-clamped tubing.
thanks , did you guys use gauges in his truck ? , i dont have any and was wondering how dangerous that would be
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  #8  
Old 01-05-2013, 10:04 AM
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Originally Posted by 1993cummins View Post
thanks , did you guys use gauges in his truck ? , i dont have any and was wondering how dangerous that would be
Yup.... This build was a very thorough nightmare but it turned out SAWEEET! The wiring-wizard kid at the place where most of the work was done actually built a complete dashboard. Aftermarket speedometer, fuel-guage, oil pressure, water temp, boost and pyro all in the panel where the OEM stuff used to be, on a nice piece of matte-black thick plastic inset. Looks like it was born that way. They're all round/retro-looking. If I've got a pic stored on this computer, I'll post it.
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  #9  
Old 01-05-2013, 02:07 PM
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Gauges are nice but I ran 4 turns on the pump with a Denny T 2 and BD 40hp injectors. No gauge, then I got one and on a 90 degree day the hottest I could get was 1200* but pump tunes can vary a lot
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  #10  
Old 02-28-2013, 08:08 PM
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I wouldn't risk it and get at least a pyro gauge... It's a whole lot cheaper than melting something..
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  #11  
Old 03-01-2013, 09:09 AM
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a pyro is all in the driver. they are recomended and good to have yes. but i was layin 410hp out of my 93 and i didnt by ANY guages for about 3 months after the build with no problem. simple answer. if you hold it with a lot of fuel for a long period of time you risk meltdown, if your smart about it dont worry about it. a good pyro is gonna be fairly expensive. the 40 dollar ones on amazon are junk.
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  #12  
Old 03-01-2013, 11:41 PM
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just get a glowshift pyrometer. They are like $110 and they are pretty accurate and they actually last

Cow tipper's Sig:1990 W250: bd diesel fuel pin, HX35, 366 spring and pump mods, 4.5 inch exhaust
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  #13  
Old 03-03-2013, 11:00 PM
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Pyro gauge is a must if your doing upgrades.

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