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12 Valve 2nd Gen Dodge Cummins 94-98 Discussion of 12 Valve 5.9 Liter Dodge Cummins Diesels with P7100 Injection Pumps

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  #1  
Old 02-02-2012, 12:20 PM
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Default 12Valve Fuel Plate

I have read many a discussion on aftermarket fuel plates for 2nd gen 12valves. What has not been addressed is the difference between the ones available.

For example...........the #10 plate. I have found them from $30 up to $250. What is the difference in these. They all claim they are made from hard steel etc.
Are they essentially the same?

Which one should I buy?

Thanks in advance....
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  #2  
Old 02-02-2012, 01:46 PM
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Get the $30 ebay plates, they are just fine. I have had a couple and no problems. Anything over $35 for a fuel plate is a rip off.

Or grind your own.

dezzrats's Sig:'97 3500 4x4 dually. KDP fix, 4" turbo back, 6" inch tip, EGR Delete, Autometer gauges, Luke's Link track bar, fuel heater delete, #10 fuel plate, tuned AFC, 3000GSK, Built auto with billet twin disk converter with lock-up switch, TransGo shift kit, PML pan, AFE stage 1 ProGaurd 7.
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  #3  
Old 02-05-2012, 09:55 AM
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good advice

Rogue Scottsman's Sig:95 Dodge Cummins, 2WD, Boost elbow, strait pipes; mods to follow soon!
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  #4  
Old 02-05-2012, 03:06 PM
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Unless you've had plenty of practice I would not recommend running a fuel plate you've ground yourself. Buy a 25 dollar fuel plate off ebay

#10 is the "middle of the road" plate.
Nice gains in HP and TQ without over-fueling.
If you grind your own fuel plate you need to know what you are doing!
Your fueling will be completely off unless you have a plate to use as reference.

Gunmetal's Sig:
I use FAST ORANGE.
Though, I must admit.. when I use it I am almost tempted to eat a handful.
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  #5  
Old 02-05-2012, 10:32 PM
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Do you even need to really use a fuel plate? Just curious
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  #6  
Old 02-05-2012, 11:30 PM
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To properly tune your truck the plate is required.
I grind my own plates all the time but I consider myself to have some basic knowledge of pump operation.

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Last edited by mysterync; 02-05-2012 at 11:33 PM..
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  #7  
Old 02-06-2012, 11:29 AM
94 12valve's Avatar
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Originally Posted by Colton Carter View Post
Do you even need to really use a fuel plate? Just curious
no

Originally Posted by mysterync View Post
To properly tune your truck the plate is required.
I grind my own plates all the time but I consider myself to have some basic knowledge of pump operation.

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I disagree, a plate is not needed to properly tune a truck. It can all be done with the afc.

94 12valve's Sig:Dave
The Underachiever
Just another sub 500hp 12 valve
Thanks to
SDX, Hamilton Cams, and Mumau Diesel
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  #8  
Old 02-06-2012, 11:34 AM
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We will agree to disagree. The afc can only tune preboost fuel. To properly tune the truck for optimum fuel economy, and power a plate is required.
How can you even begin to justify that its not?
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  #9  
Old 02-06-2012, 01:07 PM
94 12valve's Avatar
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the afc can do more than just preboost, it can also act as a fuel stop ... just like your fuel plates. All you need to do is limit the travel of the arm and it can be done for free just need a little tinker time. For economy and power its the afc that makes all the difference.
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  #10  
Old 02-06-2012, 01:41 PM
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I disagree. Bosch spent millions engineering the P series. I don't feel you can recreate the same results that simply. You will take a hit with low end control or upper end fueling. The afc was designed to move out of the way under boost and allow the plate to govern arm travel. The afc will move toward so quickly you have no bottom end fuel control, reducing efficiency, creating a massive cloud of smoke. You can slide the afc back and modify it but them it limits top end. Regardless of how you tune it at some point your foot controls the fueling all on its own. Maybe you've read some forums and made assumptions according to what others have said, I challenge you to research the true operation of the pump and make dyno runs and emission test... you'll see the plate is there for a reason.
Secondly, I don't tune my customers trucks like im a broke teenager. I tune them correctly and shoot for the absolute best driveability and efficiency possible. Disagree if you wish but pump operation, physics and common sense win everytime.

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  #11  
Old 02-06-2012, 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by mysterync View Post
I disagree. Bosch spent millions engineering the P series. I don't feel you can recreate the same results that simply. You will take a hit with low end control or upper end fueling. The afc was designed to move out of the way under boost and allow the plate to govern arm travel. The afc will move toward so quickly you have no bottom end fuel control, reducing efficiency, creating a massive cloud of smoke. You can slide the afc back and modify it but them it limits top end. Regardless of how you tune it at some point your foot controls the fueling all on its own. Maybe you've read some forums and made assumptions according to what others have said, I challenge you to research the true operation of the pump and make dyno runs and emission test... you'll see the plate is there for a reason.
Secondly, I don't tune my customers trucks like im a broke teenager. I tune them correctly and shoot for the absolute best driveability and efficiency possible. Disagree if you wish but pump operation, physics and common sense win everytime.

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I do not just read posts online and assume that there correct. I'm the guy who posts up things that I have done and gotten great results. I have done my homework on the p pump and how it works what the different pieces of the pump do. With the way I suggested you don't lose low end control or top end power. The afc can move as fast or as slow as one wishes it doesn't always move as quick as it does from the factory. When its right there is a slight puff of smoke than all that comes out of the tailpipe is a slight haze. As for your MPG comment please explain using your common sense and physics how in a reg cab 5spd 3.55 rear tuned how I'm suggesting gets 21mpg around town? last I checked with no injectiables thats pretty good.

On a side note I do not own or work in a performance shop, I help friends out with there problems when asked. So before you try and sling more dirt and call me a broke teenager I'm letting you know I'm not a member here to try and make a buck.
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  #12  
Old 02-06-2012, 03:58 PM
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i feel compelled to post something, whether its a Hiss or a Grrr i just cant deside???
LOL

turbo2332's Sig:The 95...stock...
1990 d350
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  #13  
Old 02-06-2012, 04:07 PM
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And I am trying to make a buck ? Lol
We all know im an opinionated jack azz when it comes to these subjects. Im voicing my reasonings why I feel im right. Does it mean im right, no but that's what a discussion board is right?
As for tuning like a broke teenager there was no reference to you, im implying a broke teenager may prefer the cheaper method over my method or any oem method.
As I said before we will agree to disagree. There is no spring combination on the planet that accomplishes the same effect as a fuel plate.

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  #14  
Old 02-06-2012, 05:38 PM
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Originally Posted by mysterync View Post
And I am trying to make a buck ? Lol
We all know im an opinionated jack azz when it comes to these subjects. Im voicing my reasonings why I feel im right. Does it mean im right, no but that's what a discussion board is right?
As for tuning like a broke teenager there was no reference to you, im implying a broke teenager may prefer the cheaper method over my method or any oem method.
As I said before we will agree to disagree. There is no spring combination on the planet that accomplishes the same effect as a fuel plate.

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk
I'm going to stand behind mysterync on this... AFC's purpose is low boost fuel only. How you can justify variable rate travel of the AFC idk. If its a 10 pound spring then that's all it's going to take before the AFC moves out of the way of the governor arm allowing free travel. It isn't going to increase or decrease rate of travel on your throttle input. Plus a fuel plate profile is supposed to be designed to increase/decrease fueling at certain rpms for optimal performance. Say towing a load at 1800 rpm you won't get the same amount of fuel accelerating hard from a stop at 2200 rpm. Fuel plates were made for a reason. If the AFC thing works for you; that's fine. You feel it's right; but lots o' research and development went into fuel plates and profiles. Better let Bosch know it was pointless.


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tower_ofpower's Sig:89' W250, full fuel 1 1/2 turns, M&H M3 fuel pin and timing spacer, 366 spring, air dog 150, 6" lift, shocks and dual stabilizer, custom track bar. Soon to be and ordered:transmission "shift reprogram" kit, Mag Hytec double deep trans pan, PDR super S300, HX 40 DP, ATS 3 piece exhaust manifold, DDP stg1 injectors, Fluidamper, oil filter relocation kit, autometer tach, boost, pyro, trans temp gauges.
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  #15  
Old 02-07-2012, 11:10 AM
94 12valve's Avatar
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Originally Posted by mysterync View Post
And I am trying to make a buck ? Lol
We all know im an opinionated jack azz when it comes to these subjects. Im voicing my reasonings why I feel im right. Does it mean im right, no but that's what a discussion board is right?
As for tuning like a broke teenager there was no reference to you, im implying a broke teenager may prefer the cheaper method over my method or any oem method.
As I said before we will agree to disagree. There is no spring combination on the planet that accomplishes the same effect as a fuel plate.

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk
agree to disagree works for me

Originally Posted by tower_ofpower View Post
I'm going to stand behind mysterync on this... AFC's purpose is low boost fuel only. How you can justify variable rate travel of the AFC idk. If its a 10 pound spring then that's all it's going to take before the AFC moves out of the way of the governor arm allowing free travel. It isn't going to increase or decrease rate of travel on your throttle input. Plus a fuel plate profile is supposed to be designed to increase/decrease fueling at certain rpms for optimal performance. Say towing a load at 1800 rpm you won't get the same amount of fuel accelerating hard from a stop at 2200 rpm. Fuel plates were made for a reason. If the AFC thing works for you; that's fine. You feel it's right; but lots o' research and development went into fuel plates and profiles. Better let Bosch know it was pointless.


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Here is what I have been doing, to make the afc a fuel stop all you need is a boost elbow. insted of using it on the wastegate install it on the supply line to the afc. this way it limits how much air the afc gets making it a effective fuel stop ... also makes the foot travel a lot smoother
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