heres the low down, last year this started and ever since if it sits for as little as over night it starts like sh*t in the morning whether its summer or winter. It will start fine at first run good for 15 seconds then it must hit a air pocket in the fuel cus it begins to cut out blow alot of pure white greyish smoke and horrible idle. sometimes i can feather the fuel through it and it will clear up but most of the time it will stall and i will have to push the primer button till it hardens up and i can here it coming from the overflow valve i suppose. then it will start right up, it will pop and crack till it gets fully warmed up then its good till i sits again. Now i have spent alot of time and money trying to fix it and it hasnt gotten better. i have gottin a new overflow valve put in by columbus diesel much to my dismay.... a new set of injectors from sdx, all the rubber lines were supposeably replaced by CDS, metal lines are all in great shape since the truck doesnt see snow/salt, this weekend i put a new cummins transfer pump on it with all new gaskets cus i found the other one had a rip in the primer bulb ( prob from me having to use it so much). as for visble leaks there is none i used all new copper washers and cups when i put the injectors in, i also put a new fuel heater screen in and cleaned that. I also im running no plate and with the injectors i feel i should be getting more fuel but my expectations may be high idk. i can barely hit 1000-1100 on the pyro and top out at 32 psi with the gate closed. Also i installed the 4gsk and it seems like it wont fuel much higher then 2400 maybe 2500 at most. I plan on bumping timing (just bought the kit) to help with performance and see if it wont pop and crack anymore but im definatly still getting air into my fuel system. could the banjo bolts not be lined up or is that not possible? Any other ideas? Thanks in advance and sorry for the long post

Chris

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now i know that these problems are more then likely related low fuel pressure due to the air leak is holding back the fuel as well as a timing advancement should help but i still dont know where else to look into for fuel/air leaks. do i need a copper washer on the large allen head bolt that you remove to acess tyhe star wheel? what about problems in the fuel tank itself?

 

there is a rubber seal around the metal line that comes out of the transfer pump it is a crappy design and easily overlooked. it is probably the cause of your problems

 

Banjo bolts wont cause that much of a rough idle, and no the plug on top of star wheel wont cause this either, how many miles are on this engine?