Need More Power
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Here's what i wrote in another thread which had the same question....
a cleaver way is to read peoples signatures of wich have P7100 pumped trucks !
I have a custom (self made) #0 plate.. plugged wastegate and good flowing 3" exhaust and i've smoked my OEM clutch (wich BTW only had 15.000km on it when i got the truck and i did the mods right away) in a matter of days....
if you're good with mechanical stuff just pull your AFC off, rip out the plate, grind it to a #100 (my first was like that, clutch almost held up, excessive 5th gear slip, some in 4th) but then i went for a #0 and cranked the starwheel a little bit...
it made all the difference and now i'm getting my SB 13125-OFEK in a matter of days, and then i'll really get to enjoy my truck...
i'd watch out for the 5th gear nut falling off, mine did... (someone could comment on what is the best way to fix this, tig weld ? or a fix nut ?) and it's i beleive a common problem.... oh, and get a 13125-OFEK at least...
for more info on making a custom #0 plate (or a #100 wich is what i'd prefer if i were you and had no money for a new clutch)
other stuff will cost you, like Governor Spring Kits (often reffered to as GSK) or stiffer valvesprings (wich you need if you're going to get a GSK since the OEM ones don't like revving over 3000RPM)
a #100 will do wonders for your truck... here's a quick guide on the installation of the DDP #100 plate;
YouTube - Dynomite Diesel Performance: BOSCH P7100 Fuel Plate 12 Valve
i used that for instructions on how to get the afc off and how to do that... remember, you can grind the plate yourself..
some others will probably chime in here to tell you more, but google is always your friend, just remember to be modest on what you do because every part in your truck has a limited amount of lifetime, and the parts where you add strain will wear faster
other than that... have fun, i know i did..... and i know i will have some more now that i've upgraded the weakest part of my drivetrain hehe.... next thing that breaks will be upgraded with something stronger.... just play and have fun...
always make precautions to what you do... for example, get valvesprings before you get a GSK... i've gone with 60lbs, but i'm not even sure if they'll hold up to what i'm going to do.... (3500-3700rpms is what i'm hoping for)
i'm gonna stop writing, i could write endlessly, but i learned everything i know about this on this forum.... i bet you can do just the same
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
i almost forgot.... it's always #1 to get gauges..
Fuel Press (we don't want that P7100 ruined by the end of the week)
Exhaust Gas Temperatures (i'd get one with at least a 1500° on it, nothing worse than ruining your turbo and/or even engine)
Boost (Just to give you a idea of what you're dealing with, one with 40PSI could work, i'm getting a 60PSI one though)
these three would get you started...
I have a custom (self made) #0 plate.. plugged wastegate and good flowing 3" exhaust and i've smoked my OEM clutch (wich BTW only had 15.000km on it when i got the truck and i did the mods right away) in a matter of days....
if you're good with mechanical stuff just pull your AFC off, rip out the plate, grind it to a #100 (my first was like that, clutch almost held up, excessive 5th gear slip, some in 4th) but then i went for a #0 and cranked the starwheel a little bit...
it made all the difference and now i'm getting my SB 13125-OFEK in a matter of days, and then i'll really get to enjoy my truck...
i'd watch out for the 5th gear nut falling off, mine did... (someone could comment on what is the best way to fix this, tig weld ? or a fix nut ?) and it's i beleive a common problem.... oh, and get a 13125-OFEK at least...
for more info on making a custom #0 plate (or a #100 wich is what i'd prefer if i were you and had no money for a new clutch)
other stuff will cost you, like Governor Spring Kits (often reffered to as GSK) or stiffer valvesprings (wich you need if you're going to get a GSK since the OEM ones don't like revving over 3000RPM)
a #100 will do wonders for your truck... here's a quick guide on the installation of the DDP #100 plate;
YouTube - Dynomite Diesel Performance: BOSCH P7100 Fuel Plate 12 Valve
i used that for instructions on how to get the afc off and how to do that... remember, you can grind the plate yourself..
some others will probably chime in here to tell you more, but google is always your friend, just remember to be modest on what you do because every part in your truck has a limited amount of lifetime, and the parts where you add strain will wear faster
other than that... have fun, i know i did..... and i know i will have some more now that i've upgraded the weakest part of my drivetrain hehe.... next thing that breaks will be upgraded with something stronger.... just play and have fun...
always make precautions to what you do... for example, get valvesprings before you get a GSK... i've gone with 60lbs, but i'm not even sure if they'll hold up to what i'm going to do.... (3500-3700rpms is what i'm hoping for)
i'm gonna stop writing, i could write endlessly, but i learned everything i know about this on this forum.... i bet you can do just the same
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
i almost forgot.... it's always #1 to get gauges..
Fuel Press (we don't want that P7100 ruined by the end of the week)
Exhaust Gas Temperatures (i'd get one with at least a 1500° on it, nothing worse than ruining your turbo and/or even engine)
Boost (Just to give you a idea of what you're dealing with, one with 40PSI could work, i'm getting a 60PSI one though)
these three would get you started...
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