conversion write-up 47re to nv4500
#1
05-12-2010, 03:20 PM
conversion write-up 47re to nv4500
Alright I finally got around to writing up my 47re to nv4500 swap and figured I might as well do it while its fresh in my head. First off sorry for the lack of pictures in this write up, working on the swap by my lonesome taking pictures at the time wasn’t a high priority.
First things first my truck was a 96 extended cab long bed 12 valve Cummins 4x4 and this is what is needed to accomplish the nice stock look swap to a nv4500. The nv4500 transmission, clutch, pressure plate, bell housing, pilot Bering, throw out Bering, the complete hydraulics, the clutch/brake pedal assembly (including all clips and poly sleeves just in case you loss one in the process), a front driveshaft, the shifter along with rubber grommet and leather boot, new Colum plastics, the 29 spline female shaft to replace the 23 spline shaft in your transfer case (need this to mate the standard transmission to your existing transfer case, and flywheel throw out fork assembly, and 4x4 lever and bracket from a standard truck.
I started by swapping in the clutch and brake pedals, this is done by craftily placing yourself on your back looking under the dash and by using a flashlight, 90 degree needle nose pliers, and a flat head screw driver I removed the c clip on the left side of the shaft, next I slide the shaft out to the right where there is room to do so and slid off the brake pedal, I then greased the poly sleeves and aligned them properly and slide the new brake and clutch pedals onto the existing shaft. Put the c clip back on and I moved to installing the clutch master cylinder unit. There is a rubber plug directly behind the newly placed clutch pedal that simply pops out and the hydro unit’s twists into place. The slave cylinder line and push rod runs along the fire wall and down to where it will hook into the tranny, the fluid reservoir will be mounted in the engine compartment on the firewall.
Next I removed the O/D selection button in the dash and with a punch and hammer removed the pin holding the automatic gear selector in place and installed the new column plastics without the hole. I went as far as coving up the PND123R in the gauge cluster but that’s at your discretion. I then removed the leather surrounding the 4x4 lever along with the rubber grommet. I then removed the drive shafts and set aside.
I then unhooked the electrical harnesses to the auto and supported the tranny with a floor jack, (tranny jack advised) along the passenger side of the bell housing under the heat exchanger is a access panel that is used to remove the torque converter bolts they are 16mm and should be six if I remember correctly. Next I removed the access panel to view the flywheel and converter and removed the converter plug to drain all the fluid from the converter. Next I ratchstrapped the tranny to the jack and removed the bell housing bolts and 4x4 lever for clearance as I kept the transfer case and tranny together in removing it. I then removed the tranny cross member and dropped that out of the way. With everything unhooked and removed the tranny and transfer case can be removed.
The flex plate is then removed and flywheel torque down in its place insuring the pilot Bering is new and greased install the clutch, pressure plate alignment tool and torque down to spec. The throw-out fork assembly can then be installed in the bell housing and bell housing bolted to the engine. I then bolted the slave cylinder up to keep the fork from falling in the way while stabbing the input shaft through. The standard can then be bolted in and supported with a jack till the transfer case is ready. I then bolted on the shorter 4x4 lever bracket.
The transfer case will then have to be completely disassembled to replace the 23 auto spline with the 29 standard female shafts. You will need a 1 5/8 freeze plug to plug the shaft to keep transfer case fluid from filling the gap between the transmission and transfer case. I used a Bering press to install this to the correct depth. Once put back together and sealed I used grey RVT the case can be bolted to the tranny. Using a bottle jack and a 4x4 I spread the frame to make ease to reinstall the cross member to support the new tranny and case. Using the shorter front driveshaft out of a standard truck bolt that back in. now in my case I was able to reuse my stock rear driveshaft with the tranny and transfer case only being a in shorter than the auto and case and more than 2/3 of the rear drive shafted splined into transfer case.
I returned to the cab of the truck and cut out the carpet and used a sheet metal cutting bit to peel away the hole for the shifter. Once big enough I sprayed the fresh metal with primer and installed the shifter into the Colum, silicone the grommet that screws to the floor and run the leather boot over the shifter and new 4x4 levers. The cab is finished.
Wiring is easy find the plug for the neutral safety switch from the auto it will be a three wire plug with the middle wire being purple and black, cut that wire and splice a length of wire long enough to travel up one side of the neutral safety switch on the slave/master cylinder for the clutch. There should be two green wires cut off the plug splice the newly run of wire from the purple and black wire to one if the green wires and ground out the other green wire this your new neutral safety switch. For reverse lights use the single wire harness off the standard transmission, cut the plug off on the side that doesn’t clip into the tranny and splice in the two remaining wires that were left were you used the purple and black one for your safety switch. Positive with positive negative with negative this is now your reverse lights.
As a disclaimer its recommended to follow all torque and bolt specs along with what needs to be greased and what not, its recommended to cap all remaining wires and plugs and fill your new nv4500 with mopar nv4500 fluid it takes roughly 4.2 quarts. Using a tranny jack is safest I used what I had. Overall the conversion took three full days to complete with waiting for parts and running around for things that I didn’t have. It ran me to 3000.00 + or – a few for all parts 3500.00 covered all materials including gaskets, fluids and so on. This write up is a basic overview ,so some of the basics might have been overlooked consult your manual for proper installation and removal procedures.
Any feedback is welcome (including negative if you speak your mind ill speak mine) any questions my name is Chris feel free to Pm me.
First things first my truck was a 96 extended cab long bed 12 valve Cummins 4x4 and this is what is needed to accomplish the nice stock look swap to a nv4500. The nv4500 transmission, clutch, pressure plate, bell housing, pilot Bering, throw out Bering, the complete hydraulics, the clutch/brake pedal assembly (including all clips and poly sleeves just in case you loss one in the process), a front driveshaft, the shifter along with rubber grommet and leather boot, new Colum plastics, the 29 spline female shaft to replace the 23 spline shaft in your transfer case (need this to mate the standard transmission to your existing transfer case, and flywheel throw out fork assembly, and 4x4 lever and bracket from a standard truck.
I started by swapping in the clutch and brake pedals, this is done by craftily placing yourself on your back looking under the dash and by using a flashlight, 90 degree needle nose pliers, and a flat head screw driver I removed the c clip on the left side of the shaft, next I slide the shaft out to the right where there is room to do so and slid off the brake pedal, I then greased the poly sleeves and aligned them properly and slide the new brake and clutch pedals onto the existing shaft. Put the c clip back on and I moved to installing the clutch master cylinder unit. There is a rubber plug directly behind the newly placed clutch pedal that simply pops out and the hydro unit’s twists into place. The slave cylinder line and push rod runs along the fire wall and down to where it will hook into the tranny, the fluid reservoir will be mounted in the engine compartment on the firewall.
Next I removed the O/D selection button in the dash and with a punch and hammer removed the pin holding the automatic gear selector in place and installed the new column plastics without the hole. I went as far as coving up the PND123R in the gauge cluster but that’s at your discretion. I then removed the leather surrounding the 4x4 lever along with the rubber grommet. I then removed the drive shafts and set aside.
I then unhooked the electrical harnesses to the auto and supported the tranny with a floor jack, (tranny jack advised) along the passenger side of the bell housing under the heat exchanger is a access panel that is used to remove the torque converter bolts they are 16mm and should be six if I remember correctly. Next I removed the access panel to view the flywheel and converter and removed the converter plug to drain all the fluid from the converter. Next I ratchstrapped the tranny to the jack and removed the bell housing bolts and 4x4 lever for clearance as I kept the transfer case and tranny together in removing it. I then removed the tranny cross member and dropped that out of the way. With everything unhooked and removed the tranny and transfer case can be removed.
The flex plate is then removed and flywheel torque down in its place insuring the pilot Bering is new and greased install the clutch, pressure plate alignment tool and torque down to spec. The throw-out fork assembly can then be installed in the bell housing and bell housing bolted to the engine. I then bolted the slave cylinder up to keep the fork from falling in the way while stabbing the input shaft through. The standard can then be bolted in and supported with a jack till the transfer case is ready. I then bolted on the shorter 4x4 lever bracket.
The transfer case will then have to be completely disassembled to replace the 23 auto spline with the 29 standard female shafts. You will need a 1 5/8 freeze plug to plug the shaft to keep transfer case fluid from filling the gap between the transmission and transfer case. I used a Bering press to install this to the correct depth. Once put back together and sealed I used grey RVT the case can be bolted to the tranny. Using a bottle jack and a 4x4 I spread the frame to make ease to reinstall the cross member to support the new tranny and case. Using the shorter front driveshaft out of a standard truck bolt that back in. now in my case I was able to reuse my stock rear driveshaft with the tranny and transfer case only being a in shorter than the auto and case and more than 2/3 of the rear drive shafted splined into transfer case.
I returned to the cab of the truck and cut out the carpet and used a sheet metal cutting bit to peel away the hole for the shifter. Once big enough I sprayed the fresh metal with primer and installed the shifter into the Colum, silicone the grommet that screws to the floor and run the leather boot over the shifter and new 4x4 levers. The cab is finished.
Wiring is easy find the plug for the neutral safety switch from the auto it will be a three wire plug with the middle wire being purple and black, cut that wire and splice a length of wire long enough to travel up one side of the neutral safety switch on the slave/master cylinder for the clutch. There should be two green wires cut off the plug splice the newly run of wire from the purple and black wire to one if the green wires and ground out the other green wire this your new neutral safety switch. For reverse lights use the single wire harness off the standard transmission, cut the plug off on the side that doesn’t clip into the tranny and splice in the two remaining wires that were left were you used the purple and black one for your safety switch. Positive with positive negative with negative this is now your reverse lights.
As a disclaimer its recommended to follow all torque and bolt specs along with what needs to be greased and what not, its recommended to cap all remaining wires and plugs and fill your new nv4500 with mopar nv4500 fluid it takes roughly 4.2 quarts. Using a tranny jack is safest I used what I had. Overall the conversion took three full days to complete with waiting for parts and running around for things that I didn’t have. It ran me to 3000.00 + or – a few for all parts 3500.00 covered all materials including gaskets, fluids and so on. This write up is a basic overview ,so some of the basics might have been overlooked consult your manual for proper installation and removal procedures.
Any feedback is welcome (including negative if you speak your mind ill speak mine) any questions my name is Chris feel free to Pm me.
The following 2 users liked this post by 96blackcloud:
c0zgrove (05-14-2010),
daredevilkamm (05-23-2010)
good info
#4
05-13-2010, 04:53 PM
ah completely different truck now
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
and thanks yeah i did way too much homework for this swap i can honestly say besides my first time trying to stab the input shaft through it wasnt a hard swap at all.
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
and thanks yeah i did way too much homework for this swap i can honestly say besides my first time trying to stab the input shaft through it wasnt a hard swap at all.
Last edited by 96blackcloud; 05-13-2010 at 04:53 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#5
05-23-2010, 07:54 PM
Diesel Fan
#6
07-03-2010, 03:06 PM
#7
07-04-2010, 11:13 PM
well i have a ext cab and i used the front drive shaft out of the manual truck and found my stock rear to work just fine the entire tranny and transfer case was only a inch shorter and i still had more then 2/3rds of the splined shaft on the driveshaft in the transfer case so i oped to not lenghten it for an inch and have had no problems.
#8
07-14-2010, 08:00 PM
Diesel Fan
#10
09-14-2010, 10:31 PM
Diesel Enthusiast
would like to do a 4500 or a 5600 into my '98, but have been discouraged by people who say, "better just to trade for a manual-shift truck".
Since I don't have floor-space, knowhow or unlost wrenches, I've gotta get these kinds of projects hired-out.
Just had a major reconfiguration done on son's ramcharger, to include cummins/NV4500
it's very lovable now
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you'll need an adapter plate. I didn't realize this before, but, a flywheel and clutch are NOT surrounded by the bellhousing, in the same manner as the flexplate is. I'd always assumed the bellhousing just bolted direct to the block all the time. it doesn't.
Since I don't have floor-space, knowhow or unlost wrenches, I've gotta get these kinds of projects hired-out.
Just had a major reconfiguration done on son's ramcharger, to include cummins/NV4500
it's very lovable now
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
you'll need an adapter plate. I didn't realize this before, but, a flywheel and clutch are NOT surrounded by the bellhousing, in the same manner as the flexplate is. I'd always assumed the bellhousing just bolted direct to the block all the time. it doesn't.
Last edited by geddy's uncle; 09-14-2010 at 10:31 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
