maybe not, maybe so. Depends on what the cylinders look like. If it were me I would pull the engine and rebuild it that way. However when my dad rebuilt his 97 the guy did it in the truck. Cylinders still had crosshatching on it at 250k miles. But he didn't have blow by problems either. Main bearings wore through the babbit though. And rods maybe. IDK been a couple years ago.

You can try doing it in the truck and measure the cylinders once you get the pistons pulled. And then decided to pull the engine from there. But i don't think it is worth the extra effort.


With the truck being run low on oil for that short amount of time, I doubt it is a problem. If you want to rebuild it to fix other issues than go ahead but I wouldn't worry too bad.

How many turbos have you destroyed on this thing? It sounded like more than one? If so then you might have problems. As that would indicate long term oil starvation. Primarily to the top end. Better inspect all your rocker shafts real good.

 

I fried a turbo 2 fridays ago, then like 5 days later another turbo. Both times were when I was just cruising.

 

if you need a block, I have storm block instock :898.00 new
I have the marine pistons (3911400) 90.00 a set (set includes rings, pin, retainer, and piston.)

new crank 598.00
main bearings 69.00
rod bearings 59.00
new head 398.00
upper gasket set 59.00
lower gasket set 59.00

let me know if I can help you out.

 

Excellent thanks a lot for the offer man! I'll keep that in mind when I crunch my numbers and think about which route I'm going to take.

 

Ever stop to think that maybe you shouldn't have been driving it?

 

the turbo he bought was used. no telling how it was used or why it was removed so maybe not the trucks fault.

 

Did they at least change the oil and filter? Probably ought to flush it and drop the pan to clean it out after. Your oil filter does not filter the majority of the oil and bypasses most of it and when draining the oil through the drain plug in the pan, most of the particles of bearing and metals which are not suspended in the oil do not drain out, but stay in the bottom of the pan. The drain plug is not the lowest point in the pan and everything never drains out completely. Those particles will kill a turbo bearing real quick if they get circulated through it.

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Lol. I doubt it. Have you been following his posts? Most advice is not taken. He was advised to drive slow to get it repaired and NOT stomp on it and make it smoke black. He was advised to return the pump back to stock plate and positions until getting it fixed. Instead he posts that he was going up a steep hill with it floored and rolling black smoke without the turbo working, without oil.

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Gauges? Ha, what are those for....

 

Yep many times. Thats why it was on the way to the shop.

Ya thats true.

Yep new oil and new filter.

As far as driving it slow, I was going 45mph in a 70mph zone trying to not let the truck die going up a 16% hill. Now tell me not to floor it.

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Ok the results are in.

I picked up the truck. No more oil issues. Smoked oil and black like a BANSHEE when initially started, but thats because of all the oil built up in the exhaust and the exh. mani. etc. I discovered another issue, which I will make a thread on (fan clutch).

The truck doesn't seem to pull as strong. This might be due to it not having a 35psi boost elbow, the afc is full-forward (when I had the afc 3/4 forward it smoked pretty bad, I meant to go full-rear but went the wrong direction) etc.. I dunno. Gonna tinker with afc tomorrow.

But now the oil overflow tube puffs what appears to be white smoke or steam. It doesnt' seem to smell terribly oily or anything.. what gives?

 

What? You might want to clarify that statement. Right now you sound like a world class idiot.

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That would be called blowby. Combustion gases escaping past the rings and into the crankcase.

 

so what was fixed?