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12 Valve 2nd Gen Dodge Cummins 94-98 Discussion of 12 Valve 5.9 Liter Dodge Cummins Diesels with P7100 Injection Pumps

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I just overhauled my 1990. rebuild kit including, gaskets, mahle pistons, rings, bearings, was $1100. New head was $600, injectors $550, oil pump $140, cylinders bored out to remove scoring from #3 piston comin apart cost $400, new lifters from bent valves and tappets, and ... JOIN NOW TO REMOVE TRACER

View Poll Results: When I start the truck with the turbo on, will something blow?
If nothing is blown now, doesn't sound funny, and no shavings no you'll be fine 10 58.82%
Very good chance or a positive chance something will blow when turbo is attached 7 41.18%
Voters: 17. You may not vote on this poll

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  #21  
Old 04-20-2010, 12:30 AM
1stGen1990's Avatar
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I just overhauled my 1990. rebuild kit including, gaskets, mahle pistons, rings, bearings, was $1100. New head was $600, injectors $550, oil pump $140, cylinders bored out to remove scoring from #3 piston comin apart cost $400, new lifters from bent valves and tappets, and when you tear into the motor to fix it you tend to find things that are not expected added on to your expenses. But when your done you know what you got. I saved a ton doing it myself to. Just an idea of what your looking at with a rebuild.

1stGen1990's Sig:

1990 Dodge Cummins, K&N custom intake, 5 speed getrag, tweaked pump, 4 inch strait
pipe, full power turned up, fuel pin form DennyT, BD 40 horse injectors, hx 35/40 hybrid, coolertubz crossover, gauges, 366 spring
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  #22  
Old 04-20-2010, 06:56 AM
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Thanks for the input guys. Def don't wanna rebuild the motor yet due to funds. So you guys think I'll be ok when I put the turbo on and go for a spin?
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  #23  
Old 04-20-2010, 07:30 PM
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Not until you fix why you keep killing turbos, then still no one can tell you without checking it out for themselves or a very, very good description of every single issue it still has.

guhfluh's Sig:1996 2500 CTD clubcab longbed 2wd auto 3.55, K&N FIPK, 5" MBRP, 6" stainless tip, no plate, AFC tuned some and modded for travel, Homemade 3k GSK. DTT triple disk, DTT valvebody kit, DTT full rebuild kit
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  #24  
Old 04-20-2010, 07:43 PM
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The reason I've burned up turbos is due to my insane front cover leak. Running it low enough on oil to burn them up. Thats what the diesel shops thinks anyhow. The leak was BAD on that front cover.
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  #25  
Old 04-20-2010, 08:55 PM
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If you ran low enough that the turboss didn't get oil, then the head didn't get oil, nor did the cam or anything else for that matter. I would be suprised if nothing else bearing wise was damaged.
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  #26  
Old 04-20-2010, 09:26 PM
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Oh I see. Well this isn't good news to hear... def. not what I wanted to hear.
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  #27  
Old 04-20-2010, 09:58 PM
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as for your poll , your turbo is spun by exhaust , you cant run your turbo with out your engine running
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  #28  
Old 04-21-2010, 01:51 AM
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If oil pressure had gotten that low I'm surprised it didn't lock up. Bare block and head should be salvageable. THINK WITH YOUR DIPSTICK!

12valvetater's Sig:1997 12 valve 4x4 NV she ain't pretty but she puts out
"TAINT CUMMIN"
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  #29  
Old 04-21-2010, 07:55 AM
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Dude, that truck sure is causing you a lot of of grief.

Running out of oil for less than 30 seconds probably did not ruin the engine. But, you may have metal shavings scatttered thru-out. If you're going to try and run it, at least wash out the intercooler and all of the piping before it sees any boost.

I read in one of your post, that you plan rebuilding the whole truck. I'm doing that to a 95 right now, and it looks like it's going to cost me about $12,000 with already having a good engine. And, I can do all my own engine, chassis, brake, electrical, welding, machining, painting, etc.... If you're going to try it, make sure it doesn't overwhelm you.

From the way it sounds, your current truck has been rode hard and put away wet waaaay too many times. If you could make the repairs yourself, you might be OK. But if you need to rely on shops for the work, then you better have some pretty deep pockets. I think your best possible solution is to sell or part out your current truck, and buy another one. There's plenty of the 12vs on ebay going for what you're likely to put in this one to halfway staighten out.

All I can say is good luck!

Drothgeb's Sig:1995 RCLB 4WD
10.69@125.8
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  #30  
Old 04-21-2010, 09:52 AM
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The turbo was fried the shaft split in half so the shop took it off and plugged the oil supp line and idled it for an hour. Says it ran great idled awesome no sounds etc. There is no chunks in the oil.

Yes the truck is causing me grief but hopefully once these issues are taken care of I can really dig into this thing and start rebuilding the truck. Thanks for the input so far tho guys

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

Alright quick report from the shop.

He said with the turbo off just idling, after the truck gets warm oil starts seeping out from the 3 rear cylinders into the exhaust manifold. He says it isn't terrible, and is driveable (he just doesnt know if he'd RELY on it), but the rear three are putting a bit of oil into the exhaust manifold.
Now the thing is, I'm not sure that it didn't already do that when I first bought the truck. I never ran the truck w/ the turbo off so I'm not sure that the oil in the exhaust manifold isn't something that was already there.
He says the pistons or rings might be scuffed up, but other than the small oil coming out its running great.
Has a new damper, new front cover, new seal, 16.5* timing, and soon to be a new turbo (hehe).

Last edited by 85_305; 04-21-2010 at 09:52 AM.. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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