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| 12 Valve 2nd Gen Dodge Cummins 94-98 Discussion of 12 Valve 5.9 Liter Dodge Cummins Diesels with P7100 Injection Pumps |
I have to make this repair to my engine.I have done a fair bit of research about the repair.I have accumulated all the parts except for the gear housing.My housing cracked from the dowel coming out.I am wondering if there is a way to remove ... JOIN NOW TO REMOVE TRACER
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#1
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I have to make this repair to my engine.I have done a fair bit of research about the repair.I have accumulated all the parts except for the gear housing.My housing cracked from the dowel coming out.I am wondering if there is a way to remove the push rods without removing the rocker pedestals?Next, I would like to know what size of doweling will work for holding the tappets up to remove the cam?I have gotten info from the internet,1995 Dodge service manual and advice from a Cummins service advisor.Additional help would be welcome.Thanks.
chucks |
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#2
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gear housing removal check this out and see if it helps
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to tell you the truth chucks i am not sure about that are you going to have your front cover welded or are you going to try and find one i heard on here they can be hard to find and quite expensive and they have had pretty good luck with welding them with the right welder
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#5
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the oil pump doesn't have to come off, it'll fit back thru the case. you can use 1/2" dowel rods and you bevel the end to fit down into the tappet. tap em down in lift the tappets off the cam n pull the cam out. put a piece of pvc pipe in place of the cam just in case any of your tappets fall, they wont go clear to the oil pan. n when my pin went thru the case, i took it to the welding teacher down at college n he welded it n i haven't had a drop of oil leak past yet.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to cummins95 For This Useful Post: | ||
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#6
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chucks there some youtube video of start to finish of someone doing a KDP and replacing the timing cover
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| The Following User Says Thank You to lv2cruzz For This Useful Post: | ||
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#8
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Don't pull the cam gear. That requires heating of the gear and if you heat the gear you are just asking to break it not to mention you would have a hell of a time reinstalling the gear without driving the feeze plug out of the block.
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#10
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I have a gear housing coming from an auto wrecker.I did show a machine shop the general location of the crack from a parts picture, but without it off,a proper estimate for the repair couldn't be given.I wanted to have all the parts before I tackled the job.Once mine is off,I can get it looked at by the machinist and maybe I will be able to help some one else with a replacement.After it is welded of course.Cummins95,What size of PVC pipe is recommended??Sounds like a good precaution.Thanks for all the additional info.
chucks |
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#12
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![]() do a search on google. i think tst.com is what the site is called... the sponsors sell them too ask for a price quote... i just did mine today... my truck is at 254xxx miles and was so relieved the pin has not moved at all... tab the sucker. right now im in the process of putting it back on.. the kit cost anywhere from 60-100... but i just used the coat hanger cheapo way.. Get it done ASAP!!! Last edited by kayden101; 03-15-2010 at 02:49 AM.. Reason: i cant spell as good as a 4th grader |
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#13
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TST seems to be expensive to me? I haven't looked at their kdp kit yet but everything else looks pretty pricey.
I have 256k miles on my truck as well as a front cover leak, and I dont think the kdp has been touched either, according to the last owner. So I'm anxious to get it done as well. Do you have a link to doing it the coathanger way? I'm pretty cheap and if its effective I'd do it that way as well. |
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#14
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read up ![]() you still need to buy RTV and a crank seal .... as of right now im trying to figure out how to get that seal on right.. |
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