i have a 96 2500 5seed it keeps on breaking the tranny cross member bolts off and puts the Tanny into the fuel tank. the guy that had it before me pulled over 20,000 pounds with for his fencing business. i am think that the frame is twisted. the truck is stock to with 171000 miles on it.

ltr450's Sig:

truck- 1996 2500 5speed with 170000 miles, mods- valair clutch rated at 500hp, #100 fuel plate, cai, turbo ring mia, 4inch str8 pipe, kdp fix, alot of new gaskets
toys-06 Suzuki LTR 450 lots of mods, 1999 cr250, 1998 ski-doo 500
Amsoil dealer since 2006
Dads truck- 2006 ram2500 cc lb 4" straight pipe, cai, trubo ring mia

motor mounts tight?

FastCR's Sig:

1995 Chevy K2500 Extended Cab Long Box P Pump 12 Valve + NV4500 + D60 + Military 37s
215s, No fuel plate, star wheel all in, WG shut, Southbend, stacks, etc 17*+ (280hp/920ft lbs)
'02 VW Jetta TDI *DRLs disabled, working ebay Vag-Com, Straight Piped
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motor mounts are tight. i retighen with the impact gun set on high.

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anyone else

seems kinda odd to me, have you tryed using a better grade bolt?

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there shouldnt be any stress on the crossmember bolts, i would think maybe a broke motor mount maybe?

captain_stabbin's Sig:

94 Dodge 2500 2wd ddp 75hp injectors htt 64/71/14 turbo 4k gsk 60lb springs no plate 191 dvs 4in turbo back exhaust with 5in tip nv4500 with a stock clutch that is straight slippin

kthnxbye!

Yeah something is wrong, Make sure the bolts all the bolts on the mount are tight. Make sure all your bolts are tight on trans, transfer case, right down the line. You can always weld that sucker on there!

STUMPMAN's Sig:

94 4x4 automatic, Billet input shaft, twin disc torque converter, BD valve body, Gauges, 4"DP-5" exhaust, kdp kill,TC lock-out switch,Suncoast loc-up control,BHAF, S-300, DSS, Mag-Hytec front & Rear diff,trans cover, DDP 140 injectors,DDP DV's, ported exhaust manifold,70lbex. springs, 100 fuel plate, 4k spring kit, CFM+ Intake,FASS, O-ringed, arp studs, fuel press gauge, 18" Moto Metel 951, Road Armor bumper, 9500 winch,1995 2500 4x4

What torque is you gun at? I would use a wrench on them and set the TQ right.....are you breaking the mount bolts or the bolts that hold the cross member to the frame?

PhilipR's Sig:

-Phil-98 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4,12V,47RE Suncoast Billet input shaft, Suncoast H/D Extreme Trans kit, Goerend Triple disc converter, FASS 150/90, FASS Suction tube, Amsoil Ea air and pre-filter, 100 plate, 4K GSK, 370's, AFC Mods, CoolerTubz intake, 5" stacks, BD-SBS, Autometer Z-series Pyro/Boost/Trans/FP, Amsoil front to back.

My first thought would be a U joint that is binding up. Have you taken the driveline out and checked the u joints make sure that they are free and not binding? And possibly the carrier bearing if it has one.

blkjack's Sig:

2002 Quad cab 2500 24v 6spd. Mods, Quad Adrenaline, Gauges, FP, Pyro, Boost. Air Dog 150, 86d' Silencer ring, Turbo back 4" straight piped exhaust w/ 5" tip. BHAF with custom heat shield. Custom built bolt in gooseneck hitch.

SWCR CUMMINS MEMBER #10

the bolts that are breaking are the ones that have the rubber piece that the tranny sit on the cross member. i did have the drive shaft off and the u joint are in good shape and it does not have a carrier bearing it is a single cab. the guy that had it before me would put four or five new rubber mounts with the studs on it a year because he couldn't find out what was wrong with it. i am thinking it has to be a motor mount cracked or the transfer case.

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anyone else have any input what to look for

go over the motor mounts carefully, thats gotta be it.

ok guys thinks i will look it over this weekend. i will post back to let you know what i found

a long time ago i had a chevy that was in a wreck. a guy hit me at the rear wheels. i put the truck back together but kept breaking a mount where the tranny mounted. we fixed it by moving motor mounts. i think you are crooked someway.

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if he pulled 20,000#s with it and that mount broke while hauling theres no telling what else could have been bent out of whack. i would clean where all the mounts and brackets are and check for signs of stress and cracks. after that i would just go with all new mounts to be safe and if that still doesnt fix it you could do what i done for my buddy. he had a 500hp nissan that kept ripping motor mounts so i put and engine dampner on both sides of the top of the motor and he never had another problem out of it

12.valve.hauler's Sig:

97 ctd 4x4,230,000,215hp pump,no plate, star wheel ff, silencer ring disposed of, open turbo,courser mt's, 5 inch mitre cut stack(stuck up under the bed)

X2 if all the u joints are ok would definatly look at the motor mounts very closely. And from there there has to be something out of alignment possibly a bent crossmember or maybe something with the rear axle/leaf springs good luck keep us posted.

worst comes to worst looks like i be looking for another truck. if i have to get another truck i will be looking for a vp 24v and put the p-pump on it.


is there a place where i can get motor mounts of the web

I think you can only buy the isolator part new. Energy Suspension sells them and you can get them through Summit or Jeg's. As for the acutal metal part of the mount you'll have to find a used set. Try Redlinear on eBay.