well i finally cleaned the front of my engine to see where my oil leak was coming from and it turns out my harmonic balancer is shot and wobbling real bad and the front main seal is leaking. i figure the balancer being band is what caused this but it could be just old. my question is where can i find a good but cheap harmonic balancer and how hard is it to replace the balancer and the front seal on the timing case??? and how long do you guys think my balancer will last. it prolly wobbles a 1/16th of an inch both ways and has about a third of the rubber missing out of it.

12.valve.hauler's Sig:

97 ctd 4x4,230,000,215hp pump,no plate, star wheel ff, silencer ring disposed of, open turbo,courser mt's, 5 inch mitre cut stack(stuck up under the bed)

I would say it wouldn't be very good to run like that for very long. I imagine that with the balancer messed up, it could lead to damage to the bearings, if it hasn't already happened. Rockauto.com is where I normally get my parts, they normally have good prices. They have the front crank seal for about $20, but I can't find a listing for the balancer.

daveO's Sig:

98 Cummins 12v, QC, SB, 2wd, timing set to 17*, DTT 47RE, K&N FIPK 2, HTB2 62/14, ATS Arc-Flow intake, ATS Pulse Exhaust manifold, DDP High Flow Delivery Valves, DDP Stage 2 75hp injectors, 3k RPM GSK, TST #6 Plate full forward, AFC springs, AFC full forward, HX40 Style Downpipe to dual 5" Grand Rock Aussie stacks, Autometer Phantom II 2000* Pyro, 60 llb boost, trans temp.

Might have to go to Cummins for the balancer, you'll need the info from the motor plate.
Good time to upgrade to the Fluiddamper Fluidampr for Cummins - Fluidampr Harmonic Fluid Dampers Made in U.S.A.
See them on ebay sometimes.

Racer9's Sig:

'96 Ram, CTD, 4X4, flatbed, ThurenFab trackbar, Lock-rite, 1 ton wheel cylinders.
Motor; #100 plate, governor springs shimmed, loose starwheel. 306hp/743tq.
Exhaust; Schwitzer S300G, 4" downpipe into 5" turnout stacks.
Trans; Intelligent Engineering billet input shaft, Dunrite VB and single disc TC, Burt Brown rebuild/upgrade.

will definitely take a toll on main bearings, thats the purpose of balancer!!!

gl

captain_stabbin's Sig:

94cummins, 4"turbo exhaust, fuel plate, airdog 165, kdp, quickspool manifold. gauges, boost/egt..head studs, 4gsk, 60lb springs.

not hard to replace just takes a little time. make sure while you are in there to tab the kdp if it has not been done. you will need to bar the motor if it is a auto to get the balancer off.

lodal cummins's Sig:

1996 Dodge 12 Valve
100 Fuel Plate ff, Silencer Ring Removed, K&N Filter, AFC Tuned, Boost Elbow
3" exhaust with aereo turbine muffler
Boost & Pyro Meter Gauges, Automatic with low stall converter & Shift Kit kdp killed, timing 15.5* 3kGSK

Get the seal kit from Cummins or the KDP kit from TST. They will both have the seal and the installer. Make sure the seal goes on dry. You can get the balancer from Cummins or if you want to spend the money I would go with the ATI damper. I've never been a fan of Fluidamper as I have seen them leak on some drag cars and really trash a good motor.

PhilipR's Sig:

-Phil-98 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4,12V,47RE Suncoast Billet input shaft, Suncoast H/D Extreme Trans kit, Goerend Triple disc converter, FASS 150/90, FASS Suction tube, Amsoil Ea air and pre-filter, 100 plate, 4K GSK, 370's, AFC Mods, CoolerTubz intake, 5" stacks, BD-SBS, Autometer Z-series Pyro/Boost/Trans/FP, Amsoil front to back.