I am still trying to figure out my no start problem for my ctd 12valve.this down time is keeping me from hauling things and possibly costing me more money from the jobs i could be doing.
I AM OFFERING 100 dollars to anyone who can help me fix my truck or show what is wrong and what it needs to get started.

I will give someone 30 dollars just to show up for an hour.
if you can get it started and running i will give you another 70 dollars,NO JOKE.

I am in the BREVARD county area of florida.
email via personal email for much quicker response tall3oy@yahoo

i have replaced the overflow valve,fuel pump,fuel filter,fuel lines(engine bay/from tank)
cleaned out fuel tank module...added ten gallons of fresh diesel.cleaned fuel bowl.
STILL NO START......argggggggggggggggggggggg
put in fuel guage...goes up to 22psi then to about 10 back upt to 22psi then back to 10psi


100 bux no joke! -

will1am's Sig:

1994 ctd 5sp 2wd 260+k

10 psi aint gonna get it done on a 12v if i remember correctly, you should be seeing like 30-40 psi of fuel pressure... -

stkdram55's Sig:

Just an Inline 6 Cylinder

Only 2 defining forces have ever offered to die for you.....Jesus Christ and the American Soldier..
One died for your soul, the other for your freedom.

get someone to help you.............first off crack all (if possible) injector lines at the head, then get yer air compressor and a couple rags around the hose to help seal off the air hose into the fuel tank fill hole, then while you are cranking yer truck over have yer buddy blow the tank up with air to help force feed yer system, IF you can get fuel to feed the IP then it will take over and pressure up the injector lines -

Whit's Sig:

* 01 Cummins/Dodge/HO/6 speed*275 injectors*PDR 35 turbo w/14cm housing & high pressure boots*HTT 3 piece ported exhaust manifold*Progaurd 7 with prefilter*Edge Comp*Fass II*Southbend con OFE*Jacobs brake*5"Stacks Big ens*E/F shift knob w/2low & brake switch*10 Gages*KW Ram air System cab controlled*Rickson 19.5x265's*True speed calibrator*Rancho 9000's*DT track bar*DSS steering stabilizer*KW Side impact rails*KW Traction Bars*Toolbox/fueltank 60 gal Combo*Mag High Tech Diff Cover*Ranchand bumpers*Grover air horns*Rear Wheel Cylinder Upgrade DYNO 375 Horse 941 Torque

Always remember...when life hands you Lemons,ask for Tequila and Salt and call me over!

is there fuel getting to the injectors? does it smoke white while turning over? with your fuel press going up and down what is happening when it does that (noises) i know you are just cranking the engine over have you primed the system the whole way? is there fuel at the injection pump? is there fuel coming out of the injection pump? youo may have gotten a bad lift pump sometimes that happens did you look at the cam lobe when you pulled the old lift pump off is it worn badly? -

12valvetater's Sig:

1997 2500 4x4, 260,000 mi, nv4500, EMS lockout hub conversion, EMS vacum/delete, fully rebuilt engine, o-ringed head and block, 12mm ARP headstuds, 60 lb valve springs, 4k gsk, 4in down pipe to 5in behind the wheel, air dog2 165gph, Valair organic single disk, updated 5th gear nut, pyro and boost, street/towing cam from East Coast Diesel, NO fuel plate

Sounds like it is sucking air and needs the injector lines cracked to assist with the first start.

I would not worry about the pressure your seeing right now until you get the truck running and see what it has at an idle and at wide open throttle.Make sure you have some type of dampening valve in the fuel pressure line or it will pulse so bad you may not get an accurate fuel pressure reading. -

Hammer's Sig:

1998 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 12v 5spd Quad Cab
Flame Red Sport
Mason-Dixon Turbo Diesel Club Event Co-Ordinator

I had this same problem when I replaced the rotted fuel lines on my friends truck. I cranked it and it would try to start and then die off. Open all the injectors and pump the hell out of the primer and keep pumping while somebody cranks the truck over and holds their foot to the floor. Then start tightening the injectors starting at the one towards the front of the truck and going back when the bubbles stop coming out of them. Keep cranking and holding foot to floor even after it starts this should keep it running even while being badly airbound. Be prepared for a cloud of smoke the size of a small building, but it should get your truck running. -

i have the fuel lines after the delivery valves opened.
i put in the old overflow valve in and the guage wont go past 10psi
with the new one it goes to 22psi then back to 10 then up to 22 again when I prime.

So i should have someone prime while i crank?
how long should i crank it?
seems like 30 seconds is what is recommended for the starter at most.

a guy recommended seeing if the torque plate and rod are working?
is thier a link or a write up on this injector pump.
this things seem way to fickle.

i loosen the supply line at the injector pump and prime...i can see fuel squirting out.
i loosent the overflow valve and prime i can see fuel squirting out.

i have bled at the housing till i just see fuel and no bubbles.
i have cranked while manualy holding the shutoff arm up.

i dont see fuel squirting at the delivery valves...should i move the lines so i can see in the dvalves?and look for bubbles?
i had the fuel hose sucking from a jar and it was sucking it down really well,but not as much in the same time span while cranking.

now i had someone come over and hook the fuel line back up and crank and crank and crank
and still no start... -

sounds like you are primed to the pump then

So are you primed right up to the injectors? -

Im not sure if this is possible but i thought i heard or read about this somewhere else, are you sure you have the delivery valves in the right way and not upside down... -

it might be ur fuel shutoff silnoid has shot craps on you. -

heins's Sig:

[B]1997 3/4 dodge regular cab 4x4 12 valve, 5 speed, industrial injection sps 66/71/14 , afc mods, no fuel plate , sliverline 4 in stright pipe, south bend dual disk, afe cold air intake, manifold press/pyro gauges/fuel press gauges

I did everything right on mine, and it wound up being that my timing slipped WAY slow. I'd give that a try. and post in your regional section offering BBQ and beer, not cash. -

FastCR's Sig:

1995 Chevy K2500 Extended Cab Long Box P Pump 12 Valve + NV4500 + Dana 60 + 37s on 20s
215s, No fuel plate, star wheel all in, WG shut, Southbend
'08 LMM 6" lift, 35's, blacked out, etc. (dads)
I got a pocket full of bread a girl givin' me in the back row at the movies

took off solonoid arm and have manually lifted the shutoff valve.had someone hold while cranking and STILL no fuel coming out from delivery valves.

talked to another 12 valve owner and said something about a vacuum line being cracked around afc that alows fuel to get to injection pump...a governor that works on vacuum of some sort.

at any rate looks like i need to do more reading.these things just seems way to fickle.got an 84 mercedes with 315k on it and starts in a second when cold(still pretty warm in FL though).the ctd used to start really fast too,the a few weeks ago got longer and longer to crank.till finally after have a really nice strong ride....not starting.


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this has crossed my mind too.although it ran strong the last time it ran.I ran it down the highway too and i ran it for about a half hour.i did the KDP mod in the first few months i got the truck and i never checked the injector pump nut/bolt/screw?.it looks like the previous owner didnt do anything but oil changes to this truck.

-

what did it do, or what did u do to it just before it died. were u driving and it quit, or were u adding stuff to it and it quit then, or did u just shut it off and it quit? good luck figurin it out -

biged681985's Sig:

1999 dodge 2500
bombs: 12 valve with alot of bugs.

Have you checked for spraying fuel at the injectors?

Have you been into the tank at all?

How much fuel do you have in the tank? Im thinking you should have at least 5 gallons. -

Dr. Evil's Sig:

98 12V quad cab 4X4 AND 2001 24V quad cab 4X4

from reafing ur other thread now, if u had gunk in ur tank from the bio when u dropped it, u might have a DV sticking from the bio. idk if thats possible, but worth a check to see -