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12 Valve 2nd Gen Dodge Cummins 94-98 Discussion of 12 Valve 5.9 Liter Dodge Cummins Diesels with P7100 Injection Pumps

i tried taking off one of the delivery valves and then was told i need to take something else out to take it out.i am not sure what kind of wrench i need?anybody know what it is? was also told about vacuum line next to ... JOIN NOW TO REMOVE TRACER

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  #16  
Old 11-04-2009, 12:22 PM
will1am's Avatar
Diesel Enthusiast
Status: 94 ctd 5sp 2wd

   

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i tried taking off one of the delivery valves and then was told i need to take something else out to take it out.i am not sure what kind of wrench i need?anybody know what it is?

was also told about vacuum line next to intake manifold and afc being made of plastic and leaking...?anyone heard of this?

the truck was running fine once started ,but was taking longer than normal to start,never died on me.ran for 30 minutes on highway and when parked havent gotten it started since.been over two weeks now......uhg

i put the new overflow valve in and when i prime it the pressure goes up to 30 psi and wont go back down until i stop priming.....before it would climb to 22 and then release.

any websites about taking apart and rebuilding injector pumps would be appreciated! -

will1am's Sig:1994 ctd 5sp 2wd 260+k
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  #17  
Old 11-04-2009, 12:31 PM
Dr. Evil's Avatar
Administrator
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Delivery valve removal requires a special splined socket.

Forget about doing the Injector pump yourself. This is not changing a tire - its specialzed work and you want someone with experience working on it. Some things are best left to the experts. -

Dr. Evil's Sig:
98 12V quad cab 4X4 AND 2001 24V quad cab 4X4

Last edited by Dr. Evil; 11-04-2009 at 12:33 PM..
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  #18  
Old 11-04-2009, 01:50 PM
12valvetater's Avatar
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Status: can i ever get a break?

   

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you can change the DVs but anything more than that i wouldnt get into -

12valvetater's Sig:1997 2500 4x4, 260,000 mi, nv4500, EMS lockout hub conversion, EMS vacum/delete, fully rebuilt engine, o-ringed head and block, 12mm ARP headstuds, 60 lb valve springs, 4k gsk, 4in down pipe to 5in behind the wheel, air dog2 165gph, Valair organic single disk, updated 5th gear nut, pyro and boost, street/towing cam from East Coast Diesel, NO fuel plate
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  #19  
Old 11-04-2009, 06:05 PM
FastCR's Avatar
Diesel Wrench
Status: tired of the truck

   
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Originally Posted by will1am View Post
was also told about vacuum line next to intake manifold and afc being made of plastic and leaking...?anyone heard of this?
its actually a boost line that goes from the mani to the afc which regulates fueling in relation to boost. don't think thats your problem tho. -

FastCR's Sig:1995 Chevy K2500 Extended Cab Long Box P Pump 12 Valve + NV4500 + Dana 60 + 37s on 20s
215s, No fuel plate, star wheel all in, WG shut, Southbend
'08 LMM 6" lift, 35's, blacked out, etc. (dads)
I got a pocket full of bread a girl givin' me in the back row at the movies
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  #20  
Old 11-06-2009, 08:30 PM
will1am's Avatar
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Status: 94 ctd 5sp 2wd

   

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If thier is a leak in the line that goes from the afc to the intake manifold could it cause a problem?

i tried taking out one of the delivery valves without removing the part that you take a socket to get the middle part out.I got it about a quarter of an inch up.i put it back in and it seemed to seat fine.DID i just screw the pump or delivery valve?Is it possible to help the delivery valve if something is gumming them up by doing that?


Originally Posted by FastCR View Post
its actually a boost line that goes from the mani to the afc which regulates fueling in relation to boost. don't think thats your problem tho.
-
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  #21  
Old 11-06-2009, 08:49 PM
Dr. Evil's Avatar
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I would not be messing around with the pump. I do not believe the delivery valves is the problem here. -
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  #22  
Old 11-06-2009, 08:54 PM
Smokem's Avatar
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If you removed the 2 14mm hold down nuts and raised the barrel, the balance between the assemblies is now uneven. The pump will need to be removed and balanced on a stand. The only way to remove the delivery valve is to remove the delivery valve holder which requires the splined socket. Did you get a chance to mark the camshaft nose and see if it was indeed turning during cranking? -

Smokem's Sig:Hp numbers, no need to back them up on another dyno, just put them in your signature, it's the coolest.
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  #23  
Old 11-06-2009, 09:03 PM
Dr. Evil's Avatar
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oh oh...now you can have the pump looked at to see if it was the problem or not. -
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  #24  
Old 11-06-2009, 09:43 PM
12valvetater's Avatar
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Status: can i ever get a break?

   

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live and learn -
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  #25  
Old 11-06-2009, 10:35 PM
will1am's Avatar
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Status: 94 ctd 5sp 2wd

   

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i plan on marking the camshaft nose tommorow.
I had a guy come over and tell me to lift the plunger then prying on it up he gets a call on phone that said i couldnt remove without socket tool.i should have just kept reading instead of asking just anybody to play with my motor.should have know by the heavy chrome wheels and no fuel guage he knew nothing.I just want to get my truck moving and making money again.
I lifted the delivery valve up about a quarter inch and put it back down again.It was the Dvalve closest to the gear case.i have cranked the engine over after doing this...

anybody got some pics or diagrams of the injection pump?
Originally Posted by Smokem View Post
If you removed the 2 14mm hold down nuts and raised the barrel, the balance between the assemblies is now uneven. The pump will need to be removed and balanced on a stand. The only way to remove the delivery valve is to remove the delivery valve holder which requires the splined socket. Did you get a chance to mark the camshaft nose and see if it was indeed turning during cranking?
-

Last edited by will1am; 11-06-2009 at 11:04 PM..
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  #26  
Old 11-06-2009, 10:46 PM
Whit's Avatar
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here ya go

P7100 Pump Cutaway Photos -

Whit's Sig:* 01 Cummins/Dodge/HO/6 speed*275 injectors*PDR 35 turbo w/14cm housing & high pressure boots*HTT 3 piece ported exhaust manifold*Progaurd 7 with prefilter*Edge Comp*Fass II*Southbend con OFE*Jacobs brake*5"Stacks Big ens*E/F shift knob w/2low & brake switch*10 Gages*KW Ram air System cab controlled*Rickson 19.5x265's*True speed calibrator*Rancho 9000's*DT track bar*DSS steering stabilizer*KW Side impact rails*KW Traction Bars*Toolbox/fueltank 60 gal Combo*Mag High Tech Diff Cover*Ranchand bumpers*Grover air horns*Rear Wheel Cylinder Upgrade DYNO 375 Horse 941 Torque

Always remember...when life hands you Lemons,ask for Tequila and Salt and call me over!
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  #27  
Old 11-06-2009, 11:07 PM
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This might be of some use for those interested. -
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  #28  
Old 11-08-2009, 03:19 PM
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Originally Posted by will1am View Post
If thier is a leak in the line that goes from the afc to the intake manifold could it cause a problem?
no it would not, this would not come into effect till the turbo starts to spool, would not have anything to do with starting or idle

heres a link to check if timing has slipped

http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94...ack-stock.html -

shortbusdriver's Sig:97 Cummins 3500 Pos Editon
92 Chevy short bus 6.2

Last edited by shortbusdriver; 11-08-2009 at 03:23 PM..
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  #29  
Old 11-08-2009, 03:42 PM
tower_ofpower's Avatar
Diesel Wrench
Status: makin the 89 a western hauler... no real reason

   

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Originally Posted by Smokem View Post
If you removed the 2 14mm hold down nuts and raised the barrel, the balance between the assemblies is now uneven. The pump will need to be removed and balanced on a stand. The only way to remove the delivery valve is to remove the delivery valve holder which requires the splined socket. Did you get a chance to mark the camshaft nose and see if it was indeed turning during cranking?
good news is; the BOI will stay the same as he didnt do anythign witht eh shims below the barrel; bad news is that fueling may be unbalanced now. if the didnt rotate the barrel and lined up the old track marks he may be close enough to finish trouble shooting before he does have to have the pump put on the bench.

as for the owner; i know you'd like to get the truck running; but offering money to every yahoo can be a dangerous and expensive thing. so far you've experienced what this site is so good for... helpin eachother and most of the time the guys on here can get ya thru what you're workin on FREE. -

tower_ofpower's Sig:One thing i learned in college: DON'T!!! stick your fingers where you wouldn't stick Mr. Happy 89' W250, full fuel 1 1/2 turns, smoke screw flush with the lock, stock pin mildly ground, 1/8th timing bump whole truck refreshing in progress. Soon to be: fuel pin, 366 spring, smooth wall intake tubes once i actually start stock piling some money, turbo and manifold swap, 4" exhaust; 5 if it'll fit. and nozzles.
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  #30  
Old 11-11-2009, 07:57 AM
will1am's Avatar
Diesel Enthusiast
Status: 94 ctd 5sp 2wd

   

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i checked to see if the injector pump gear was slipping.i marked the gear and nut and It doesnt look like it is.
IS thier a number to call where i can get a qualified tech to help me with this CTD?




as for the owner; i know you'd like to get the truck running; but offering money to every yahoo can be a dangerous and expensive thing. so far you've experienced what this site is so good for... helpin eachother and most of the time the guys on here can get ya thru what you're workin on FREE.[/QUOTE] -
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