Hey guys i haven't really got to do my sig yet so here are my specs, i have a 1996 Ram 2500 CTD, AFE stage 1, ISSPRO Boost and EGT Guage, #0 Fuel plate.

I've been having alot of issues lately with my truck and i wanna see if you all can help me out! First is my truck just seems to have no power what so ever, today i was pulling about 6k trailer and all it seemed to do was rev the engine but not going anywhere fast, my transmission wasn't slipping though, on a normal day it seems that my tranny doesn't run right, ill pull out of the drive way and get on it a bit, the rpms will go up but not as much acceleration as i expect, seems on the interstate ill be doing about 70mph and tacking about 2 grand, I don't know if you guys have ever heard of the "free" govenor spring trick you can do with the stock springs, but i did it and set it to 3k, here are my other questions, My truck is really really rough starting, even after spending a night plugged in it doesn't want to start the next day, ill have to hold the pedal to the floor and crank it over for about 10-20 seconds before it even sounds like it gets fuel, it will spudder at first then start, i believe my fuel filter needs changed since i haven't changed it in about 10k. From what ive heard and read from people that have the same setup as me their trucks do pretty good at racing and towing, just trying to find out whats going wrong with my POS!

Edit: I have a 47re tranny, it was rebuilt at 165, it currently has 215k i bought it after the tranny was rebuilt!

Thanks Cody

is it cold where your are?? do you warm up your truck before going anywhere. my suspicion on the hard starting is the glow plugs or the glow plug circuit. as for the tranny I think its pooched.
warm up the truck and transmission(go for a drive) after its good and warm, set the park brake, put the trans in nuetral and check the trans fluid. Is it between the lines?? SMELL it. if it smells burnt, or realy nasty, get it flushed, new filter, add some LUCAS and fill with new good quality trans fluid. Drive it again.

note: often rebuilt transmissions are inferior to factory built ones. especialy if rebuilt at the lowest price place in town. I just reinstalled a rebuilt auto tranny in a 94 dodge 1500 for a customer and it lasted three weeks. It slips like crazy and jumps gears too.

CanadianCummins's Sig:

95 Ram 2500 Extra Cab Long Box 2wd AT, fuel plate & AFC forward, bhaf... 300,000 km
Race car Hauler. I want to do full air ride, body swap a stretched 52 GMC cab, stretch the frame, do a dovetail deck, and put on 19.5 big rig wheels with supersingles on the back
Race car: 1978 Honda Civic 1200. 2.0L Accord EFI motor swap autoXer

I would change you fuel filter first thing...If it does the same thing either you OFV is bad or the LP.Best to check these with a fuel pressure gauge...You may also have a air leak in your fuel line.Change you fuel first and post bad if that was the problem...Are your grid heaters cycling when you get it started??

Diesel Dave 2's Sig:

1995 Dodge,250K miles, regular cab dually,4X4,5 speed,4:10 gears,Wastegate blocked,15 degree timing,Polyurethane control arm bushings,BHAF,KDP Tabbed,Pyro & Boost,DSS,2003 trackbar upgrade,Steerring bushing,#10 plate,3K springs,215 injectors,Laser cut DV,Con OFE,full B100.

I had alot of fuel issues with my truck. Alot of times when I lose power it is cause of bad fuel in cold weather IE Bio Diesel. I run semis as well and they also have issues with that Bio diesel.

If you do replace the overflow valve make sure it is a bosch unit.

Like they said above replace the fuel filter it is cheap and easy. There is also a pre-filter in the fuel heater and a pre-filter in the sending unit in the tank

Check to make sure the block heater is working. Sometimes they burn out.

haulitrite's Sig:

2005 CTD QC DRW 4x4 6sp stock
1994 CDT std cab dually with stahl utility box, 4x4, plate FF & AFC FF, BHAF W/factory vac indicator, auto, KDP tabed, ISSPRO-boost-trans-EGT gauges.
1977 Chevy C65 5&2 eaton, 12V CTD out of 94

I had a tranny line leak not to long ago and basically i put so much new tranny fluid in it, it should all be new and yes it's between the lines i checked it a few days ago. Ive been putting Mopar ATF +4 in it, i haven't changed the filter in it though! And Diesel Dave what do you mean by are my grid heaters cycling? And yes it is cold here

Cody Cummins's Sig:

***1996 12 Valve Cummins Turbo Diesel***

AFE Stage 1 Air intake, Boost Controller Valve, #0 Fuel plate slid full forward, AFC FF, ISSPRO Turbo Boost and EGT Gauges, Stock Gov. 3k mod, 4 inch exhaust, 5" Grand Rock Power Flow Stacks 16" American Racing Rims, Definity Dakota's M/T 285/75/16

****It's True I would rather be Cummin then Strokin****

As far as the problems when it is started. It sounds like a trans, they are junk from the factory.

If the motor is increasing in RPM and the truck wont move with it then the TC or trans is going out.

as far as replacing the fuel filter, what is the best way to get to it and change it? and also do i need to fill the filte with fuel before putting it back on or will it prime its self?

there is a intake heater that heats the air before it enters the cylinders. you will see a light on the dash below the cab heater knobs.

There are two elements and they will cycle if the air temp is below 59F

It is highly recomended that you fill the filter before installing. After you get the fuel filter on losen the bleed bolt on the top of the fuel filter housing and prime the lift pump until no air comes out around the bleed bolt.

Yea, that works fine and dandy, i wait till the light goes over and usually repeat that about 3 times just to make sure there warm! and yea my block heater is working!

Does the place you fill up at sell Bio diesel.

Bio diesel gels at higher temps than regular diesel

Whats the best way to get to the filter and take it off?

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

No i get regular On road Diesel

You will need to unplug the WIF (Water in Fuel) sensor then just spin it off.

When you get a new filter you will need to swap the sensor from the old filter to the new filter.

Some guys unbolt the four nuts on the brake booster...But you could turn the fuel filter without moving it....Standard oil filter wrench will work...When you start the truck,your volt meter should move back and forth till the intake warms up...This indictes the grid heaters are cyling..hope this helps...

Ok

We don't have bio diesel around here , and i got a new Fuel filter it's in the garage right now waiting to be put in!