Back in black, with a basket case.
#51
Then we removed the old diff.
Junk.
And cut off a few things. We reinforced the frame for brackets and added leafs to the Chevrolet packs I bought since they were just the length I needed and flat. I wanted flat since I didn't want to lift the truck much, if at all.
Brackets and bracing. We boxed over the frame where they mount for good measure. The frame on a 2nd Gen is only 3/16 in the boxed section. And the hangers I bought are 5/16. So I boxed over the area they mounted with 2 L plates made out of 1/4". So both the underside of the hanger and the reverse side of the frame are effectively 7/16 thick. The hangers are from an F550 C&C truck. 6 1/2" diameter gr.8 bolts and welds along the sides.
And leafs.
Good for 2400 pounds. Stock coils are good for 2100ish each.
They are from an 80s Chevrolet 4x4. They an inch shorter than the Dodge variants and very common, which makes them much cheaper. 135 vs 270.
Junk.
And cut off a few things. We reinforced the frame for brackets and added leafs to the Chevrolet packs I bought since they were just the length I needed and flat. I wanted flat since I didn't want to lift the truck much, if at all.
Brackets and bracing. We boxed over the frame where they mount for good measure. The frame on a 2nd Gen is only 3/16 in the boxed section. And the hangers I bought are 5/16. So I boxed over the area they mounted with 2 L plates made out of 1/4". So both the underside of the hanger and the reverse side of the frame are effectively 7/16 thick. The hangers are from an F550 C&C truck. 6 1/2" diameter gr.8 bolts and welds along the sides.
And leafs.
Good for 2400 pounds. Stock coils are good for 2100ish each.
They are from an 80s Chevrolet 4x4. They an inch shorter than the Dodge variants and very common, which makes them much cheaper. 135 vs 270.
#52
And here's where things got to.
A little changed after that. I went with longer shackles that I made from 1/4" plate with a spine welded to the middle so that they didn't fold. Held things a little nicer with more clearance.
I should be able to retain the OEM shock towers. Which is good cause I didn't want to make new ones.
I went leafs because, frankly, the whole system is tougher and simpler. I angled the leafs inward to avoid the need for a Trac bar (if the leafs attempt to move, they'll move in two separate arcs and fight one another). And went front shackle to keep things more level. Side bonus is that when I hit a bump, the axle and steering g will move forward on compression, not backward. Which will keep my steering from smacking my engine crossmember. Fluked that off!
A little changed after that. I went with longer shackles that I made from 1/4" plate with a spine welded to the middle so that they didn't fold. Held things a little nicer with more clearance.
I should be able to retain the OEM shock towers. Which is good cause I didn't want to make new ones.
I went leafs because, frankly, the whole system is tougher and simpler. I angled the leafs inward to avoid the need for a Trac bar (if the leafs attempt to move, they'll move in two separate arcs and fight one another). And went front shackle to keep things more level. Side bonus is that when I hit a bump, the axle and steering g will move forward on compression, not backward. Which will keep my steering from smacking my engine crossmember. Fluked that off!
#53
#54
I need to pull it and properly reman it to be happy. It leaks too much oil for me to be happy. The former owner did some very questionable things.
For instance: the brace on the back of the p7100 is no longer there. That's worrying.
The power is better than before with the new injectors. It needs other small things to wake up properly.
#55
know what kinda parts are the best parts?
FREEEEEE parts!
I'm going to try to use the new one, maybe sell the OEM one since they're apparently getting harder to find.
Thinking I'll try to find a slipyoke for it for the 2nd gen U joint (I believe a 1350 or 1410 U joint instead of the itty bitty ones in the 1st gen (friggin 7290 dodges or 1310 spicers. . .junk)
In other news,
decided on a 2 piece rear shaft since finding a 1 piece SS-1 style (slip/stub) that is 64" long is. . .
difficult.
So, I need a carrier bearing mount.
Let there be crossmember!
Gonna reinforce the hell out of it once I get the exact placement figured.
And I got the exhaust figured out since, well, there weren't no room for that along the passenger side of the frame, what with a 205 hanging off the end of the transmission.
Right now its. . . Pretty damned fricking glorious. Click the link since I'm an idiot at uploading videos.
Truckvidja_zpsvnytm3ml.mp4
I'm currently sourcing a 7" semi stack to run a 3" inner pipe through, like the old side piped trucks from the 70s. Gonna run along the cab and dump out somewhere along the box. should be proper wicked.
Hoping to get the driveshaft and clutch hydraulics sorted before my steering gets ordered. then reinforce the front frame horns further (where the shackles mount) and then, it's safety time!
FREEEEEE parts!
I'm going to try to use the new one, maybe sell the OEM one since they're apparently getting harder to find.
Thinking I'll try to find a slipyoke for it for the 2nd gen U joint (I believe a 1350 or 1410 U joint instead of the itty bitty ones in the 1st gen (friggin 7290 dodges or 1310 spicers. . .junk)
In other news,
decided on a 2 piece rear shaft since finding a 1 piece SS-1 style (slip/stub) that is 64" long is. . .
difficult.
So, I need a carrier bearing mount.
Let there be crossmember!
Gonna reinforce the hell out of it once I get the exact placement figured.
And I got the exhaust figured out since, well, there weren't no room for that along the passenger side of the frame, what with a 205 hanging off the end of the transmission.
Right now its. . . Pretty damned fricking glorious. Click the link since I'm an idiot at uploading videos.
Truckvidja_zpsvnytm3ml.mp4
I'm currently sourcing a 7" semi stack to run a 3" inner pipe through, like the old side piped trucks from the 70s. Gonna run along the cab and dump out somewhere along the box. should be proper wicked.
Hoping to get the driveshaft and clutch hydraulics sorted before my steering gets ordered. then reinforce the front frame horns further (where the shackles mount) and then, it's safety time!
Last edited by Slim Whitey; 02-10-2016 at 02:04 AM.
#56
Steering! Kinda hitting a nail with a pile driver here. 220,000psi studs from TMR, and a gigantor steering arm/kingpin cap from NWF. TREs and hardware from TMR as well.
http://s190.photobucket.com/user/Micheal_Corleone/media/KIMG0154_zpsscyfyfew.jpg.html
http://s190.photobucket.com/user/Micheal_Corleone/media/KIMG0159_zpsx5hm6lqq.jpg.html
http://s190.photobucket.com/user/Micheal_Corleone/media/KIMG0160_zpsf4ihqi5f.jpg.html
hunting for tubing for the crosstube on the drag link now. Dunno where I'll find it or what I'll get, but I want it to be big.
http://s190.photobucket.com/user/Micheal_Corleone/media/KIMG0154_zpsscyfyfew.jpg.html
http://s190.photobucket.com/user/Micheal_Corleone/media/KIMG0159_zpsx5hm6lqq.jpg.html
http://s190.photobucket.com/user/Micheal_Corleone/media/KIMG0160_zpsf4ihqi5f.jpg.html
hunting for tubing for the crosstube on the drag link now. Dunno where I'll find it or what I'll get, but I want it to be big.
#57
NARRRRF!
NorthWest Fabworks did a great job on my drag link. 1.5" .375 wall tubing. she's heavy.
Need a new Tie rod. It hits the leaf right now. dammit.
Found out I guessed wrong for the rotors. there's a couple options, and I got the ones that are taller, so they rub on the bearing hubs. Always something. :
Oh well. It's coming along!
NorthWest Fabworks did a great job on my drag link. 1.5" .375 wall tubing. she's heavy.
Need a new Tie rod. It hits the leaf right now. dammit.
Found out I guessed wrong for the rotors. there's a couple options, and I got the ones that are taller, so they rub on the bearing hubs. Always something. :
Oh well. It's coming along!
#58
This should be interesting.
Scored a set if loaded mirrors off of an 07 powerstroke for cheeeeap.
They're a little different,but I have a plan (a real one this time!)
We disassemble the dodge mirror. And trace out for an adapter.
We place the dodge mount bracket for rough measure of where the new studs will go.
Disassemble the ford mirror. Mark the mount for trimming.
[IMG]
https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/t31.0-8/fr/cp0/e15/q65/13217093_10154040036782534_8150573277232979522_o.j pg?efg=eyJpIjoidCJ9[/IMG]
Trim and test fit.
Pull your hair out trying to find a piece of aluminum that will actually frigging work, because no one sells chunks of it, just full sheets. And that is expensive.
Scored a set if loaded mirrors off of an 07 powerstroke for cheeeeap.
They're a little different,but I have a plan (a real one this time!)
We disassemble the dodge mirror. And trace out for an adapter.
We place the dodge mount bracket for rough measure of where the new studs will go.
Disassemble the ford mirror. Mark the mount for trimming.
[IMG]
https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/t31.0-8/fr/cp0/e15/q65/13217093_10154040036782534_8150573277232979522_o.j pg?efg=eyJpIjoidCJ9[/IMG]
Trim and test fit.
Pull your hair out trying to find a piece of aluminum that will actually frigging work, because no one sells chunks of it, just full sheets. And that is expensive.