As for turbos, I have an upgraded hx35 (60mm inducer) and I managed to snap my tranny input shaft, rest of the tranny is stock other than the upgraded 5th gear nut. I may go to a BD Super B (they're also in Abbotsford)

 

I'd just get new ones.

I have no plans of revving this thing past 3 grand, frankly. if my idea of 400 crank hp is not possible I'll scale it back. I'd sooner put that money into a webasto or espar engine heater anyway. I live in a place where -40 is not uncommon. winterization is a big deal. that's why the timing won't be too further advanced and why I'll probably be running dual block heaters and an oil pan heater until I cna get that diesel fired engine heater.

The nice part about rebuilding this is that firstly, I learn things.
secondly, I can do it in stages. where I might not have the 1500 needed for a running used engine (which I also don't know the condition of internally) I will, at numerous times, have the 400 I need for head studs, the 90 for bearings, etc. I don't know. . .I have it, I bought it for the clutch and flywheel (dude wanted 125 for a decent clutch/flywheel, gave me the block/rotating assembly for another 125).

Plus, diesel engines ain't cheap here like you'd think.

 

It depends on the price you're going to have to pay to collect all the little parts like front cover, head, etc...

I never rev my truck over 3K, I haven't put it on the dyno, but I think I'm getting close to 400 HP now.

I forgot to answer about the EGT's with the higher compression.. Since I did so many changes at once, it's hard to say.. They're a little higher now than before, even with the improved airflow, but by the same token my last engine had stock injectors.
I haven't found turbo spool improved with the cam, but the engine is much happier to rev and far more efficient at highway speeds now.

 

fair enough.

For now, I have to delay the wiring of the seats to next weekend since it's turkey day here (to the non-canuckian members here, RX7 knows this of course), but i got two brackets made up to level out and lower the outrageously high seats, and mounted one of the back bolts on each one for extra stability. Got the wiring all figured out (amazingly, a chevy dealer here actually printed off the wiring diagrams I needed! even after I told em the seats were going into a dodge!)
so next weekend that'll get all done. debating on whether to do injectors/clutch, clutch/engine seals, or injectors/engine seals on this motor first. . the cheapest is clutch/seals. . .should probably do that. . .

re: turbo: I think an HX35 would do what I'd want. I have a WH1C right now, it runs the same PSI but the construction is a little different. a reman HX35 from a decently reputable place is something I wouldn't hesitate to buy.

 

Bit of an update.

Bought MOAR GASKETS. Gotta find a heated shop and then we'll see how this goes. I was toying with buying a cam first, since a mild cam I can just drop in and see how she does, but that may not happen now.


Did balljoints on the pax side since they were clicking. that required an oxy torch to burn em out. It was fun times.

headlights quit last sunday. I think this is the perfect time to get rid of the garbage farmer wiring toggle switch on the dash, and go back to OEM switches. so I got them ordered and the headlight housings ordered since mine are well past due.

getting a black sport bumper from a 95 to replace my chromey one. Also getting a black grille, to be painted one colour or another at some point, since mine is cracked (don't. . .don't ask how I pooched the bumper and grille. . .).

And finally, kinda toying with the idea of a leaf spring swap for the front end in the spring. Complete with a Dana 60 from a late 80s Ford, if I can get one that is correctly geared. I'm thinking Superduty springs for nwo since they are "nicer" than the springs from a first gen. I would go with the first gen Dana 50, but I wanna keep the 60 series capability, and get manual locking hubs. plus, the Ford diff will have kingpins.

Hellyeah.

I think I'll have to regear whatever I find though, since it doesn't look like Ford offered 3.55 gears. That's less of a problem if the carrier size and bolt pattern of the 60 stayed consistent for the duration of it's use. if so, I can re-use my current gearing form my current 60.

 

400 horse is extremely easy to attain. Full fueling mods, exhaust, intake and a turbo on a stock truck will put down 400. Maybe even more. The experience I have is with a truck that had far too much turbo at the time so more power could be attained with a proper size for stockish fuel like a 60 or 62 instead of a 64 in the case of my buddy. 500 is just delivery valves and injectors added to the 400hp mod list. These engines make power super easily if you know how to do it and tune.

 

what the hell is "full fueling mods"?

 

Afc modifications, fuel plate grind, and tuning. Add a gov spring on that and a turbo and pretty easy to lay down 400 on a stock truck. Best friend out down 405/850 on that, crazy carls full 3.5 intake piping and a htt exhaust manifold. And the turbo was a bd special. If it was a killer it likely woulda put down more since the turbo would have been more suited for the fueling. Now with dv's, 5x14 injectors, electric fans and a stuff afc spring and full billet trans it's likely putting down 500, still gotta hit the rollers. All simple bolt on parts. Stock fuel system. Stock timing, and hg. And stock valve springs only revving to 3200rpm

 

If I gotta rev the thing out to 3200 rpm to make that power I ain't gonna bother. I keep my truck under 2250 99.9% of the time. I'll throw the 5x12s I want at it, the boost it needs with an adjustable WG and boost gauge, some timing (only mildly, since it has to be able to start where I live), and maybe a cam (I have the front of the engine off often enough, pissing around with this POS timing case).

Overall, I don't really know. it'll get done as it gets done. Right now I'm at half hours for winter at work, and I still need to buy my webasto since plugging in is soon gonna be not possible. Then it's the front end swap. another 50HP would likely keep me happy for a while, since then it'd at least be, on paper, where my powerstroke was.

I also don't know how you can call a modified AFC, different injectors, a gov spring set, and the other things you listed a "stock fuel system".

my concrete goal has always been, through all my bouncing around and theorizing, 200hp, at the rear wheels. so I need about 300 at the crank. So that's likely a set of 5x12s, another 10 pounds of boost capability, and maybe a cam/exhaust manifold cause I'm vain enough to want them. to me, then I have the exhaust side covered, I have something that might make my cummins sound less like a moose farting in the wind (hopefully the cam helps a bit) and i have the fuel & air side covered. Plus, that should keep me from seeing a huge drop in fuel economy. since that still matters. I made 21 grand last year.

 

Cummins have all their pull past 2000 rpm. And cams don't really have any use under 2000 rpm. Unless you going super mild which is kind of a waste of money and really won't help. A 181/208 I believe is as mild as I'd go for any performance gain. By stock fuel system I mean stock lift pump and ofv. It makes 400 horse at 2700 and torque a 1900, on a dyno you Rev it all the way out. Myn hit 4000 on the dyno but my power was made much lower. The gov spring is more for speed of fueling and usable rpm. The stock set up is super slow. Having a 3 or 4 gsk makes it much much more responsive. And as for timing I run 22 here in canada and it starts fine in - 30c. If it sits 8 hours in that it's not happy but I always plug it in.