Glowshift gauges
#1
Glowshift gauges
I've decided to get a set of glow-shift gauges. a 60psi boost gauge a pryometer and fuel pressure. My problem is that they offer for pryometer a 1500F or a 2400F gauge. The fuel pressure gauge goes to 30psi or 100psi. So im wondering if bigger is better (they are the same price no matter what size) or if smaller works just as good and you should never go over this much or it could be fatal to your engine. My truck is stock as of now i would like to upgrade so what I am really wondering is what is the optimal psi for the fuel pressure and tempt for pryometer and what should i never go over?
#2
Pyro- approximately 1300 for extended time will cause problems. If serious power is made you MAY reach above that but it is unlikely and unwise in a DD
Fuel- this one depends on the lift pump and fuel requirements. 30 psi may be exceeded stock. I run a 60 psi gauge for what it is worth... (FYI you need a diaphragm to keep fuel from cab. Be sure you get that.)
Boost- again depends upon setup but for a DD single 60psi should be sufficient. Again, this is what I run.
Also, an old racers trick is to rotate gauges in pod so that your max values are at 12 noon. (I left pyro alone as it is color coded. )
Hope it helps.
DD
Fuel- this one depends on the lift pump and fuel requirements. 30 psi may be exceeded stock. I run a 60 psi gauge for what it is worth... (FYI you need a diaphragm to keep fuel from cab. Be sure you get that.)
Boost- again depends upon setup but for a DD single 60psi should be sufficient. Again, this is what I run.
Also, an old racers trick is to rotate gauges in pod so that your max values are at 12 noon. (I left pyro alone as it is color coded. )
Hope it helps.
DD
#3
#4
#8
To properly install a F.P. gauge into the cab of a vehicle a diaphragm is used. This stops fuel from coming into the cab. The line running from said diaphragm to the in cab gauge is usually filled with anti-freeze. This avoids many possible issues from fires to smell.... you get the idea
Snubber valve- ball valve etc. are all commonly used on trucks with mechanical fuel lift pumps. The pulsing of the pump (natural) will shorten the life of a F.P. gauge without a "snubber"
All that said...
I run Isspro gauges. Love them. Bought a package deal (came with diaphragm but no snubber) I installed a valve to keep bouncing in check. 3 years later and I believe I have killed the F.P. gauge anyway
A banjo bolt is a hollow bolt used to flow fluid. They are common throughout the fuel system. This is likely where you will tie into for your gauge (ie: outlet of F.F. or intake of I.P.)
Hope it helps
DD
#9