Ok so i got a 1997 with a few things done. banks twin ram intake 3peice exhaust mainfold 4 inch straight pipe pac brake(vaccum) banks quick turbo assembly running 32-33 boost max raptor 150 fuel lift pump k and n drop in filter and boost tranny temp(never over 140f running hot) egt(900f max) guages. has torc lock posi lock and prime lock on it also. I just ordered a new overflow valve with a smaller hole for higher fuel pressure because I am having alot of white smoke and mpg problems. Hard starts in the cold and white smoke when ever i give it some even running at normal temp(170f) i seem to get a mix of white/black .I am also getting about 13-14 mpg. If the overflow valve isn't the problem i noticed three rear injectors had some fuel or oil leaking near the base but not the first three closer to the radiator. My truck has just under 200k miles and i think the injectors are stock and the origional i've gotta a price of 550$ plus 250$ core for some bd 40 over horse injectors should i try anything cheaper first like fuel shut of module? Also thought my timing could have slipped because its getting constant bad mpg and white smoke? any ideas on doing timing myself and buying tools to do it or just bringing it down to local diesel mech. or anything else that could be killing my mpg? Also previous owner had the pre fuel boost screw set to lowest possible, idle to 500-600 rpms to pass DEQ or to try to save gas should i take off the AFC and check the fuel plates position?

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

Got about 700-1000 bucks to spend on the fixes.too. thanks for the help and advise!

 

I would check the plates and timing. Moving the timing up will get you the higher efficiency. Please pay attention and get the current injectors attended to as that may be the majority of your problem (worn and/or bad spray pattern = white smoke & inefficient fuel atomization). Let us know what did it as others might be curious ...I know I am. I think you can turn up your boost a little bit too for more air and power.

Gut feeling and based on experience...injectors.
Good luck and let us know how it goes.

 

pull your injectors and have them tested.

 

I would start at the Overflow valve , you have the correct idea, low fuel pressure will cause the Ip to starve the Injectors for fuel prseeure/Volume and make a poor spray pattern also...

If this doesnt fix the issue then yes I agree on the Injectors need to be tested and go from there .....

Start simple and work your way up the Diagnostic chain , dont just toss parts at it, it can get spendy real quick... keep us posted more ideas to come

 

Ok so got the 40 horse over overflow valve for 25 bucks and 10 or something shipping installed in 5 mins with a 3/4 wrench. This over flow valve is just a bolt without the spring and ball with just a smaller orifice. Fixed the smoke white smoke at low rps and i will post tommorrow on how it starts in the cold and how much white smoke is left. But it still smokes white and starts to sputter 2500-3k rpms. Not leaking fuel and all my fuel lines are new and secure but it seems to be sucking air near the injectors. The first delivery valve has been off and I didn't do it so i am guessing someone timed this truck before me and i got it at 160,000 and two years laters im near 200,000. So from the info from everyone here is to do timing and or injectors are my next parts. I heard 370 marines are smokey shizal, ddp is expensive, but I have seen BD with 40 horse over for about 750 with core charge and rebuild bosch on ebay for about 500-750. Anyone know what gets them the best mpg? and is there any other reason for just poping the first line to the the delivery valve other then someone elses attempt at timing? I wanna start cheapest then move to more expensive but if the timing is fine or close enough for now should i start with injectors? Thanks again ill post tommorrow with cold start info!

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

Thanks for all the help to guys! Save me the trip to crappy repair shops and rip off prices! Thats why i went from an 05 lifted dirty max to my 97 cummins! few hand tools and a decent jack and you can do basically anything with some good information!

 

I would run a tune up and adjust your valves next, can cause the top end sputtering, and if the #1 DV is seeping or leaking need to pull it and check it out, just to make sure its sealed and torqued correctly.

I would get a stock set of 215hp injectors unless you plan on going crazy with the power, should be enough for general towing and DD with out all the smoke and heat.
370's are dirty and real hot- not recommended..... get quality and pay a bit, its worth it

 

Ok so decided on ddp and i am going to order them tomorrow. The 50 rwhp ones, but i've found them for 740 on most sites and 560 on another. Kinda scared of why there is a large difference of $. neither require cores, maybe older models or worse? Gonna go for the 560 of course but how could i know if im getting sold counterfeit or rebuilt injectors? Hopefully get rid of my white smoke problem. Timing is next if not.

 

why DDP? they are so over priced!!!!!!! give DAP's website a good look see. there are many good injectors out there and they shouldn't cost you any more than $500 to you door. lots of places dont even need cores because new bosch body only cost like $30.
and ide be in the 90 hp market no 50.

www.DieselAutoPower.com

 

Ok so everyone says DAP and it looks like with a returned core ill save in the area of 100-150 bucks from others. From my research it looks like i would rather have 5 hole .012 at a 145 degree angle not marine at 155. but i got one question i see 12 valve and i see 12 valve SAC on this site for choosing the size what is SAC referring to? The angle? I think most people are stating that the 155 is not right for truck world just marine applications. So i wanna make sure im getting the right ones.

 

SAC is the design of the tip and is a newer style. you want the SAC sty nozzles.