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12 Valve 2nd Gen Dodge Cummins 94-98 Discussion of 12 Valve 5.9 Liter Dodge Cummins Diesels with P7100 Injection Pumps

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So I am looking to buy a 1998 dodge ram club cab short bed 4x4 12 valve with rebuilt auto transmission he is asking $8300. However, it has a few issues that I haven't had to deal with yet 1. the heater makes a loud ... JOIN NOW TO REMOVE TRACER

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  #1  
Old 01-12-2013, 05:07 AM
Diesel Fan

   

Default Need help 1998 dodge ram 12 valve

So I am looking to buy a 1998 dodge ram club cab short bed 4x4 12 valve with rebuilt auto transmission he is asking $8300.

However, it has a few issues that I haven't had to deal with yet
1. the heater makes a loud clunking weird noise that i've never heard before it comes from the passenger glove box.

2. when you go to start it you have to give the gas pedal about a 1/4 push to pump it (my 96 12 valve never did this)

3. rear main seal leaks a good amount about a half dollar or more a day

4. when i took off the oil cap a little white smoke was coming out of it.

any idea on how much any of this is to fix or how I can fix it, I do work at least 60 hours a week and don't have much time to tinker with it.

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

here is the ad with more info:
1998 12v dodge 2500
Bd torque converter, flex plate and valve body on newly rebuilt tranny.ARB front bumper with mile marker hydraulic winch, bosch injectors, 4" exhaust, summer and winter tires, full size matching spare, fuel filter relocation kit from Genoes garage, amsoil bypass system, synthetic fluid in Everything, leather interior, fiberglass topper,trailer brakes, power mirrors, power drivers seat. Very reliable ol truck and the 12 valve is legened to go forever. My family is growing and im selling my favorite truck ever to get a four door. 230,000 miles.

chris_ak's Sig:1996 dodge ram 5.9 12v club cab long bed, completely stock

Last edited by chris_ak; 01-12-2013 at 05:07 AM.. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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  #2  
Old 01-12-2013, 10:47 AM
JBearSVT's Avatar
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Status: <- Finally found a big enough air filter for mah' Dodge!

   
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I don't really have much to say about the other stuff, but according to my owner's manual you're supposed to crack the throttle when you start it, this is normal. Granted, I wouldn't say you have to, but for mine it's the difference between it firing off as fast as you hit the key and sitting and waiting for it to light off after a few seconds of cranking. If this one literally won't start without doing it, something sounds a little off to me. I wonder why he made a point of saying it has Bosche injectors? As far as I know that's what they came with, unless they're upgrades, in which case I wonder why no specifics were given. I don't know what the smoke would mean. The heater shouldn't be that big of a deal. If you don't have time to work on it yourself though, having anything done can end up being a real kick in the ***** after laying down for a new truck.
Regardless, if the truck is clean and seems to run strong, that sounds like a more than fair price to me if that's all it has wrong with it. The only thing I'd worry about is the rear main seal, it's not the sort of thing you wouldn't change when you have the trans out. If it started leaking this soon after having it done, then it either should have been changed and was ignored, or wasn't put in properly. Neither bode well for the quality of work on the rest of what was done to the trans in my mind, but I'm a pessimist. I'd ask some more questions, but if it looks good I don't expect it will sit long. He'll probably take 8K in cash if someone walks up with it, and I'm sure someone will.

JBearSVT's Sig:
365ooo mi.
BHAF ~ 60/68/14 DP turbo ~ ported/o-ring head ~ 3 angle valves ~ 60# springs ~ ARP's ~ benched pump ~ 4K/GSK ~ 18° ~ no plate ~ 5x13 VCOs ~ 3pc manifold ~ 4" MBRP
47RE: triple disc TC ~ smart lockup switch ~ hand rubbed VB ~ steel planetaries ~ billet everything ~ deep pan ~ blah blah blah...
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  #3  
Old 01-12-2013, 02:34 PM
Diesel Fan

   

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thanks for the reply, I do know the injectors are 370hp upgrades (or so he says). It ran good and everything I just don't want something to blow up in my face. And that heater noise sounds awful but haven't been able to find anything on it.
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Old 01-12-2013, 02:57 PM
JBearSVT's Avatar
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Status: <- Finally found a big enough air filter for mah' Dodge!

   
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I suppose an annoying heater, where you live, could be a real problem.
I don't think it's going to blow up in anyone's face, but we'll see what the people who actually do know Jack have to say when they tune in. I do find it somewhat odd that he has 370HP injectors but didn't mention any AFC modifications. There has to be a lot to this truck that he left out of the listing.

Last edited by JBearSVT; 01-12-2013 at 02:59 PM..
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  #5  
Old 01-12-2013, 03:29 PM
Diesel Fan

   

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ya no kidding i need the heater running good. the things i know of are 370hp injectors, amsoil bypass oil filter relocation, fuel filter relocation, 6# fuel plate, bhaf, 4" exhaust, flex plate, valve body and bd torque converter. it also has air ride rear with 2 inch spacers in the front.
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Old 01-12-2013, 05:11 PM
JBearSVT's Avatar
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Four door or just two door with a back seat? Short bed? Long bed? Rust? Has to have rust way up there.
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  #7  
Old 01-12-2013, 05:17 PM
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The white smoke from the oil cap is just blow by nothing big for a 230K truck if its smoking like a freight train then you have a problem. If your having starting issues its maybe the lift pump($150) and 30 minutes of your time. The clunking noise in the heater sounds like a fan.. dunno what them run but they are sure fun to get too. Rear main about 30-50 bucks I would recommend to buy a Cummins rear main my luck with NAPA brands are that they leak realy fast again.

RanchhandTCR's Sig:1998.5 Dodge Cummins 24 Valve (Its A CUMMINS!) 3 inch straight pipe exhaust. Fuel, Trany, Boost/EGT Westach guages. DPS Exhaust manifold. Alaska PCM, 2008 Dodge rims fitted with Cooper S/T Maxx 26570R17. Bambi Basher, Rolling Arsenal. Colorado Cummins.
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Old 01-12-2013, 05:22 PM
JBearSVT's Avatar
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In my experience, purchasing a rear main seal is the cheap part, unless you can DIY.
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  #9  
Old 01-12-2013, 07:31 PM
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Yea buyin the seal is definitly the easy part, changin it not so much

tiremann9669's Sig: 96 12 valve Club Cab 4X4, K&N Intake,4'' Straight Pipe, 285/75R16 Bridgestone Revo's,on 16X8 American Racing Black steelies, Firestone ride rite airbags Future Bombs Guages, Aftermarket lift pump, Fuel plate, Injectors,etc,etc,etc Oh Yea I'm sure a clutch will come into the picture sometime too
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  #10  
Old 01-12-2013, 08:02 PM
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Well ya I meant the seal cost 30-50 bucks plus about 2-4 hours of time.
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