front passenger side axle tube has a beefy aluminum bracket that rubber mounts to the frame in 2 places with long(4")studs, and then bolts to the axle tube to stabilize the pass cv axle...anyone changed this before? to slide the 4" studs on the bracket out of the frame it hits the motor oil pan???i have the gm shop manual and it shows it being changed with no motor in the diagram(obviously because drawing in the motor would block the bracket view)but it doesnt say anything about moving the oil pan or motor or disassembling the stud out of the bracket in order to install it?anyone who's changed this bracket please help!!!

mikes454's Sig:

06' silverado crew cab//long box//6.6LBZ//allison6spd.//BD 4"straight thru exhaust//edge juicew/attitude//K&Ncold air kit//6" bds lift w/gm lift keys//37"pitbull rockers//

hmm, that big V lookin alumin bracket ur talking about

2500HeavyDuty's Sig:

yup thats it

ima have to take a look at it tomorrow and see if it can come out ez, never messed with it before

Just curious why are you taking it out?

chevyburnout1's Sig:

Dustin

'03 Silverado LB7.
EFI Live w/ DSP2 _ Suncoast IV w/ 1056 _ K&N Intake _ Machined Intake Mod _ Diamond Eye 5" straight piped

the rubber bushings at the frame mount are shot, i noticed the thing was sitting cocked at an angle to the frame, it looked worn basically, and now that i have all four bolts loose on the thing i can tell its definately shot.maybe i wont spit out cv's every weekend once its tight and supporting the axle tube properly again(doubtful)i guess i'm off to the dealership to ask around there, i'm surprised no one has changed this before,my truck has just over 100,000 k on it and its worn out so go check yours everyone...

It's pretty easy but you have to watch for a couple things.

Take out all of the axle shaft bolts and separate that from the stub shaft in the tube.
Remove the 2 nuts holding that rectangular bracket on the end of the axle tube.
Disconnect the electrical connector and pull the loom out of the clip.
Remove the bolts holding the axle tune to the the front diff.

At this point you have to kind of wiggle the tube assembly free from the diff while pulling down on the axle stub side. You might also have to put pressure on the front diff with a pry bar to tilt everything down on the right.

As your pulling the tube watch for parts falling out. Check out the diagram. Parts 12, 13 and I think 9 also can fall out. It's not a big deal. Just pay attention to how the came out and you'll be fine.

Johnny Cetane's Sig:

Three Time Survivor Of Excrement Creek

those 3 parts will fall out when you pull that axle tube off. if you losen the 2 bolts that hold that alum brakcet into place it will make it easier to pull the axle tube off or like he said just use a pry bar.. its really easy you shouldnt have any problem doin it.

GTRW3T's Sig:

i have have a 04 chevy lly duramax 2500HD 4x4 . it has the banks 6 gun, 5in grand rock aussie cut stacks, 4in mpbr cat delete down pipe, no muffler just strait 4in pipe, cold air intake, dual piller pod w/ autometer boost and pyro gagues, 3in body lift, eagle alloy rims with pro comp all terains. and alot more stuff to come though.
just wanna say thanks to cbrahs and sunsetsky for there help hooking me up

its not the axle thats the issue its the aluminum v shaped brace that goes where #4 and #10 kinda point at. gm shop manager had no idea so apparently you have to drop the oil pan to remove it, or pull the motor...nice goin gm engineers