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04.5-05 LLY Bombs (Aftermarket) Discussion of Chevy and GMC Trucks with LLY Duramax Turbo Diesel Engines Related To Performance And Longevity

This modification bypasses an important pollution control device and should be used for race applications only. Use at your own risk. The PCV system allows oil to enter your turbo, CAC tubing and intercooler. Rerouting this by creating your own road-draft tube will keep this ... JOIN NOW TO REMOVE TRACER

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  #1  
Old 07-20-2008, 04:15 PM
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Default DIY- PCV Reroute

This modification bypasses an important pollution control device and should be used for race applications only. Use at your own risk.

The PCV system allows oil to enter your turbo, CAC tubing and intercooler. Rerouting this by creating your own road-draft tube will keep this from happening. My method of doing this allows you to return your PCV system back to stock in about 10 minutes.

You'll need:
  1. 5-6 feet of 5/8" heater hose.
  2. Some hose clamps.
  3. 1 package of barstool leg caps in 7/8" or 1"
  4. Cable ties to hold the new tube in place.

First thing is to remove your air chamber. Once that is out of the way you will see the "T" fitting that connects the PCV system and routes it into your turbo.



At first I wasn't 100% sure about how I was going to do this so I started by cutting off the large crush clamp. I didn't need to do this in the end and could have just cut off the 2 smaller clamps on the hoses going to the valve covers. Take your time here and cut slowly so that you don't cut into the hoses.

Here is the factory "T" removed. You can see that I have also plugged the inlet going into the turbo. I used a 7/8" barstool endcap for a tight fit and held it in place with a hose clamp.



Here is the new 5/8" "T" fitting installed with the heater hose.




Now route the heater hose down to the frame rail and secure with cable ties. Trim to length. Some people have also added or made their own catch can to route the end of the house into. I may do this in the future.

You should not see any oil leaking out of the heater hose but some oily residue on the end is to be expected.

Here is everything secured and buttoned up.




Now be sure to save the factory "T", hose going to the turbo and spring clamp. You can reinstall these if needed at any time using the hose clamps you purchased.

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Last edited by Johnny Cetane; 07-20-2008 at 04:19 PM..
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  #2  
Old 07-20-2008, 04:44 PM
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Old 07-26-2008, 01:19 PM
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You actually dont need to cut the junction "T" off. A 5/8" heater hose will fit perfectly on the OD of the inner tube. That way you can easily put it back to stock if you get rid of the truck.

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Old 07-26-2008, 02:14 PM
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What does this do for the truck? Will it throw any codes if I dont have the finger stick? Also, will this work on the LBZ? Thanks!

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Old 07-26-2008, 02:17 PM
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This vents your crank case gases to atmosphere instead of pumping them right back into the turbo and through the CAC. If you look at your lower boots you'll see some oil residue where its leaking from being forced through the CAC because of the PCV system.
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Old 07-26-2008, 02:20 PM
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But isnt a lil bit of oil good for lubricating the turbo? What does this help? just prolong the life of the turbo?
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Old 07-26-2008, 02:23 PM
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NO!! This is pumping it through the intake side of the turbo and forcing it through your intercooler system. This is actually detrimental to the turbo not to mention your entire CAC system. It builds up oil and soot through-out the entire system.
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Old 07-26-2008, 02:25 PM
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As you can see in this picture



The oil would follow the T and drop in to the intake side of the turbo like DD said
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Old 07-26-2008, 02:26 PM
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oh dang! looks like I need to get this done on the LBZ.. Thanks for the info!
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Old 07-26-2008, 02:28 PM
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Excellent

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Old 07-26-2008, 02:29 PM
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Yeah, get it done ASAP. Only takes about 10 minutes and your engine and CAC will thank you. On another note...if you start building high boost the boots will start blowing off because of the amount of oil that is blowing through the system. If this happens pull them apart and clean them. When you reinstall them run a small bead of silicone on the inside so that it will help them stay put.
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Old 07-27-2008, 11:56 PM
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Another trick is Aquanet Hair Spray. Spray the inside mouth of the hose/tube. It'll slide right on, then dry sticky and hold tight. But, not too tight to release.

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Old 07-27-2008, 11:59 PM
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another method is to use windex, they slide nice and easy and get sticky when it dries
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Old 10-07-2008, 08:11 AM
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Grrrrr With all this stuff there is to do... I'm gonna be workin on my truck when I'm not at work or in school... or sleeping :S:

One of ya'll wanna come fix my truck for me?

So would this PCV system be a good idea for anyone? I am going to get an 05 GMC LLY thursday. And I just read up about this PCV deal, the EGR blocker and finger stick. I know alot about car stats and stuff like that just cuz I'm looking at it alot.... but when it comes to building and fixing stuff on cars, all I know to do is pop the hood.

I understand that they help out with prolonging different parts and making your rig run more efficiently but how much better is it? And how hard is it to do?(like for me to do that knows next to nothing about it all) I have a bet with my dad that I can get to 500K miles so I want to do whatever I can asap to prevent anything from happening to my truck as best as I can before something bad happens and costs me big $$$. I looked at an EGR blocker and finger stick kit for like $55(fair price?) and this PCV deal sounds pretty cheap too... any other cheap upgrades that ya'll know of that are actually worth something just let me know.

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

yeah i may have to move this.... it's like 3 months old...

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Last edited by Big_Johnson; 10-07-2008 at 08:11 AM.. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old 10-07-2008, 11:30 AM
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egr blocker and finger stick is a good price.

This keeps all the oil out of your cac system. if you were to look at the inside of the intercooler tubes or the front of the turbo blades you would see a film of oil covering them.
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